Krebiehl’s top 20 German Spätburgunders
streak of elderberry. Sourced from grand cru sites only, this represents great value and is a perfect illustration of the region’s return to delicacy and elegance. A very fine tannic structure supports this fresh, crisp and infinitely graceful wine.
Drink 2017-2027 Alc 13.5% Jülg, Spätburgunder Trocken Réserve, Pfalz 2014 94 £ 17 Howard Ripley, Vin Cognito A touch of woodsmoke hovers above fine, dark cherry notes on the nose. The palate is taut and structured, bright with freshness but brimming underneath with very purely delineated fruit: crunchy red cherry and aromatic morello. Slender but firm, fine-boned but with ample backbone. Lovely now but certain to age beautifully.
Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13.5% Salwey, Oberrotweiler Henkenberg Grosses Gewächs, Kaiserstuhl, Baden 2014 94 £ 26.40 Tanners Pure and lifted redcurrant and cranberry mingle with slight smoke on the nose. This has gorgeous freshness and pure red fruit notes that convince with brightness and freshness. There is a slight but pleasant grip and while this is very pretty, there is serious structure and intent underneath. Finesse and poise are inherent. Drink 2019-2030
Alc 12.5% Ziereisen, Rhini, Markgräflerland, Baden 2013 94 £ 34.80 Howard Ripley Classified as Badischer Landwein, thanks to Ziereisen’s individual streak. Beautifully mellow ripe cherry fruit on the nose becomes defined and taut on the palate, which shows brightness and verve with slender charm anchored in spicy depth. The structure becomes evident on the finish, where Baden sunshine also manages to bathe this in balanced ripeness and light. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Aldinger, Untertürkheimer Gips, Württemberg 2015 93 £ 19.50 The Wine Society Wild strawberry appears hauntingly on the nose. Pure and delicate flavours of aromatic red berries pervade this, and the texture is as silky as a translucent veil. Elegant and refreshing, this has something delicate yet defined with long, echoing flavours. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 12.5% August Eser, Mittelheim St Nikolaus, Rheingau 2012 93 £ 21.95 Vagabond The nose shows rich tones of peony and polished mahogany with a slight edge of pepper. A vivid palate has resonant red cherry and a tingling smattering of pepper, which has smoothed out but shows the ripe fruit of 2012 to perfection, without an ounce of fat. Lovely now but still evolving. Elegant and sumptuously aromatic.
Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Axel Neiss, Fortnum & Mason, Spätburgunder, Pfalz 2014 92 £ 17.50 Fortnum & Mason At first there’s a hit of toasty new oak, then bitter cherry and cranberry join in on the nose. The palate has real tension and freshness, typical for 2014, highlighting pepper spice and crunchy, tart cherry fruit with a lovely, firm but silky grip. It is the freshness with its tart fruit that echoes long on the palate. Elegant and lasting.
Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13% Claus Schneider, CS Weiler Schlipf Spätburgunder, Markgräflerland, Baden 2014 92 £ 18.50 OW Loeb, Swig Expressive red and black cherries, almost heady, dominate the nose. The palate is juicy and vibrant; it comes on light feet but carries power with supple, well- defined muscularity. Gorgeous backbone of acidity. Animating and invigorating style, with fine texture. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13% Franz Keller, Franz Anton, Kaiserstuhl, Baden 2014 92 £ 23.75 The Wine Barn A lovely savoury nose of bay leaf and hayflowers precedes cherry and berry fruit. Pepper mingles with the soft red fruit on a moreish palate. This is appetising, elegant and taut with a mouthwatering finish. Drink 2017-2027 Alc 13% Martin Wassmer, Spätburgunder Markgräflerland, Baden 2014 92 N/A UK www.weingut-wassmer.de A touch of mocha hints at richness. The palate is juicy and fresh, brimming with blackberry, while rounded oak aromas counter the fruit and make for a supple, smooth body. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Oliver Zeter, Pinot Noir Reserve, Pfalz 2014 92 £ 23-£ 24.50 Adnams, Caviste, Delibo, Grapesmith Hungerford, Stainton Wines, The Vintner, Vin Neuf, Vinoteca Morello cherry freshness immediately captures the nose. The palate has an appetising tanginess and a slight grip. This is taut and firm, even crunchy in its freshness, then more morello cherry with a touch of smoke. The fruit is simply disarming. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Josten & Klein, Vom Schiefer Pinot Noir, Ahr 2015 90 £ 21 Raymond Reynolds Appetising red cherry fruit is evident straight away. This is a very approachable, juicy and young Pinot that’s spicy around the edges,but also captures the sunshine and warmth of the 2015 vintage perfectly. Lovely tension in that cherry fruit. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% Hans Baer, Dry Pinot Noir, Pfalz 2016 88 £7 Tesco Appetising, spicy cherry fruit rules the nose here, followed by white pepper and red and black cherry notes coming into their own on the palate, for a fruit- driven and rounded introduction to German Pinot Noir: joyous, fresh and juicy. Incredible value too – and for sceptics, a very affordable way to dip their toe into the water. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 13%