Kre­biehl’s top 20 Ger­man Spät­bur­gun­ders

Decanter - - GERMANY -

streak of el­der­berry. Sourced from grand cru sites only, this rep­re­sents great value and is a per­fect il­lus­tra­tion of the re­gion’s re­turn to del­i­cacy and el­e­gance. A very fine tan­nic struc­ture sup­ports this fresh, crisp and in­fin­itely grace­ful wine.

Drink 2017-2027 Alc 13.5% Jülg, Spät­bur­gun­der Trocken Réserve, Pfalz 2014 94 £ 17 Howard Ri­p­ley, Vin Cog­nito A touch of woodsmoke hov­ers above fine, dark cherry notes on the nose. The palate is taut and struc­tured, bright with fresh­ness but brim­ming un­der­neath with very purely de­lin­eated fruit: crunchy red cherry and aro­matic morello. Slen­der but firm, fine-boned but with am­ple back­bone. Lovely now but cer­tain to age beau­ti­fully.

Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13.5% Sal­wey, Ober­rotweiler Henken­berg Grosses Gewächs, Kais­er­stuhl, Baden 2014 94 £ 26.40 Tan­ners Pure and lifted red­cur­rant and cran­berry min­gle with slight smoke on the nose. This has gor­geous fresh­ness and pure red fruit notes that con­vince with bright­ness and fresh­ness. There is a slight but pleas­ant grip and while this is very pretty, there is se­ri­ous struc­ture and in­tent un­der­neath. Fi­nesse and poise are in­her­ent. Drink 2019-2030

Alc 12.5% Ziereisen, Rhini, Mark­gräfler­land, Baden 2013 94 £ 34.80 Howard Ri­p­ley Clas­si­fied as Badis­cher Landwein, thanks to Ziereisen’s in­di­vid­ual streak. Beau­ti­fully mel­low ripe cherry fruit on the nose be­comes de­fined and taut on the palate, which shows bright­ness and verve with slen­der charm an­chored in spicy depth. The struc­ture be­comes ev­i­dent on the fin­ish, where Baden sun­shine also man­ages to bathe this in bal­anced ripeness and light. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Aldinger, Un­tertürkheimer Gips, Würt­tem­berg 2015 93 £ 19.50 The Wine So­ci­ety Wild straw­berry ap­pears haunt­ingly on the nose. Pure and del­i­cate flavours of aro­matic red berries per­vade this, and the tex­ture is as silky as a translu­cent veil. El­e­gant and re­fresh­ing, this has some­thing del­i­cate yet de­fined with long, echo­ing flavours. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 12.5% Au­gust Eser, Mit­tel­heim St Niko­laus, Rhein­gau 2012 93 £ 21.95 Vagabond The nose shows rich tones of peony and pol­ished ma­hogany with a slight edge of pep­per. A vivid palate has res­o­nant red cherry and a tin­gling smat­ter­ing of pep­per, which has smoothed out but shows the ripe fruit of 2012 to per­fec­tion, with­out an ounce of fat. Lovely now but still evolv­ing. El­e­gant and sump­tu­ously aro­matic.

Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Axel Neiss, Fortnum & Ma­son, Spät­bur­gun­der, Pfalz 2014 92 £ 17.50 Fortnum & Ma­son At first there’s a hit of toasty new oak, then bit­ter cherry and cran­berry join in on the nose. The palate has real ten­sion and fresh­ness, typ­i­cal for 2014, high­light­ing pep­per spice and crunchy, tart cherry fruit with a lovely, firm but silky grip. It is the fresh­ness with its tart fruit that echoes long on the palate. El­e­gant and last­ing.

Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13% Claus Sch­nei­der, CS Weiler Sch­lipf Spät­bur­gun­der, Mark­gräfler­land, Baden 2014 92 £ 18.50 OW Loeb, Swig Ex­pres­sive red and black cher­ries, al­most heady, dom­i­nate the nose. The palate is juicy and vi­brant; it comes on light feet but car­ries power with sup­ple, well- de­fined mus­cu­lar­ity. Gor­geous back­bone of acid­ity. An­i­mat­ing and in­vig­o­rat­ing style, with fine tex­ture. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13% Franz Keller, Franz An­ton, Kais­er­stuhl, Baden 2014 92 £ 23.75 The Wine Barn A lovely savoury nose of bay leaf and hayflow­ers pre­cedes cherry and berry fruit. Pep­per min­gles with the soft red fruit on a mor­eish palate. This is ap­petis­ing, el­e­gant and taut with a mouth­wa­ter­ing fin­ish. Drink 2017-2027 Alc 13% Martin Wass­mer, Spät­bur­gun­der Mark­gräfler­land, Baden 2014 92 N/A UK www.weingut-wass­mer.de A touch of mocha hints at rich­ness. The palate is juicy and fresh, brim­ming with black­berry, while rounded oak aro­mas counter the fruit and make for a sup­ple, smooth body. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Oliver Zeter, Pinot Noir Re­serve, Pfalz 2014 92 £ 23-£ 24.50 Ad­nams, Cav­iste, Delibo, Grape­smith Hunger­ford, Stain­ton Wines, The Vint­ner, Vin Neuf, Vinoteca Morello cherry fresh­ness im­me­di­ately cap­tures the nose. The palate has an ap­petis­ing tangi­ness and a slight grip. This is taut and firm, even crunchy in its fresh­ness, then more morello cherry with a touch of smoke. The fruit is sim­ply dis­arm­ing. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Josten & Klein, Vom Schiefer Pinot Noir, Ahr 2015 90 £ 21 Raymond Reynolds Ap­petis­ing red cherry fruit is ev­i­dent straight away. This is a very ap­proach­able, juicy and young Pinot that’s spicy around the edges,but also cap­tures the sun­shine and warmth of the 2015 vin­tage per­fectly. Lovely ten­sion in that cherry fruit. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% Hans Baer, Dry Pinot Noir, Pfalz 2016 88 £7 Tesco Ap­petis­ing, spicy cherry fruit rules the nose here, fol­lowed by white pep­per and red and black cherry notes com­ing into their own on the palate, for a fruit- driven and rounded in­tro­duc­tion to Ger­man Pinot Noir: joy­ous, fresh and juicy. In­cred­i­ble value too – and for scep­tics, a very af­ford­able way to dip their toe into the wa­ter. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 13%

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