Expert’s choice: Argentinan Cabernet

Move over Malbec – Cabernet Sauvignon is making a name for itself in Argentina. Alistair Cooper MW selects 18 bottles that reveal the grape’s considerable potential

2018-04-01 -

Quality Cabernet Sauvignon can easily rival the more famous Malbec, says Alistair Cooper MW

IN BoxINg pARlANCe, Malbec is the undisputed heavyweight champion of Argentina, a title it has held for many years. Its closest contenders are Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. Despite Bonarda’s significant plantings, it can’t compete in the same division. So what kind of shape is Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon in at the moment, and just how well can it perform?

The flavour profile of Cabernet Sauvignon on the eastern side of the Andes is quite distinct to that of neighbouring Chile, where deep cassis, spice-laden, often minty styles are found. In Argentina, with its continental climate, Cabernet tends to be rounder, softer and more velvety, often with a hit of ripe red fruit and morello cherry. When they are done well, the wines can be deeply aromatic and sensual, almost Napaesque, as opposed to the firmer styles of Bordeaux or Coonawarra. one of the main issues however, is that Cabernet in Argentina has not always been given the respect and care it requires.

It’s hard not to form the impression that a number of producers in Argentina may have taken their eye off the Cabernet ball in the past. All too often we saw overripe,

jammy wines given heavy oak treatment (often new) resulting in wines lacking both structure and freshness and feeling overtly woody. The key here is harvest date – overripe wines will always accentuate oak influence and flavours. Grapes that are harvested a little earlier (or at the correct time) can absorb and handle oak better, and the resulting wines will have a better frame and structure. Therefore, especially in riper vintages, producers must adapt oaking regimes – perhaps using older oak, as well as different vessels.

Fortunately, there is a growing band of winemakers who are beginning to focus on Cabernet, and are doing exactly this – using less new oak, a higher percentage of second- and third-use barrels, as well as old foudres and concrete eggs. Some producers are harvesting Cabernet up to a month earlier than they were only five or six years ago. Slowly these wines are trickling onto the market and some are of excellent quality. Another significant development is that of sub-regional diversity and the emergence of more terroir-driven wines.

Historically the lower level zones to the south of Mendoza were the best Cabernet lands. They continue to produce some excellent examples, especially the stony, loamy gravel soils of Perdriel, and the alluvial sandy-loam of Agrelo. Arguably however, it is the higher altitude areas of the Uco Valley that are stealing the show. Gualtallary and Altamira (along with Vista Flores) are producing wines that combine power and elegance with minerality and tense, finely chiselled tannins.

There is a slow but sure movement towards more elegant examples of single-varietal Cabernet. Already some of the country’s greatest wines are blends featuring Cabernet and Malbec, the two varieties working in harmony with impressive results. So it’s fair to say that, despite being the underdog, Cabernet deserves its turn in the ring with the mighty Malbec. Alistair Cooper MW spent years working for wineries in Argentina and Chile. He is a judge at DWWA and the resident wine expert for BBC Radio Oxford

These wines are the best of those tasted at Wines of Argentina’s Barullo tasting in London