Iden­tity cri­sis

Decanter - - LETTERS -

AN­DREw JEf­foRDs’s Col­umN on the im­por­tance of ge­o­graph­i­cal name pro­tec­tion ( July 2018 is­sue) is ab­so­lutely cor­rect in fo­cus­ing on the cen­tral is­sue of ‘truth telling’. If I buy a bot­tle of Ch­ablis, I need to be 100% cer­tain it’s made from Chardon­nay and is from Ch­ablis it­self. like Jef­ford’s ‘Châteauneuf-duPape, Grand Vin de Bour­gogne’, I ex­pe­ri­enced span­ish Ch­ablis in the late 1960s! But truth telling for the con­sumer is only one side of the coin – there is the other side of brand­ing for the pro­ducer, an is­sue that I be­lieve our English wine pro­duc­ers are strug­gling with. English sparkling some­how doesn’t quite cut the mus­tard when brows­ing the shelves of Cré­mant, Cava and Prosecco, none of which is a place name, and I be­lieve we need a brand name to de­scribe and shout out for our fan­tas­tic sparkling pro­duc­ers. one sug­ges­tion, from Poul­ton Hill Es­tate in Glouces­ter­shire, is the latin word ‘bu­lari’ mean­ing... bub­bles! so imag­ine Nyetim­ber, Chapel Down, Poul­ton Hill with a pro­tected sta­tus for their Bu­lari. our wine in­dus­try needs to get be­hind such a pro­tected brand, even if they don’t like that par­tic­u­lar sug­ges­tion. Dr Brian Met­ters, by email

I RAIsED A glass to An­drew Jef­ford af­ter read­ing his July is­sue col­umn on the virtues of the ap­pel­la­tion sys­tem. I re­mem­ber vis­it­ing a pro­ducer in mon­terey, Cal­i­for­nia a few years ago. In­cluded within his ex­cel­lent range was a ‘Port’ and a ‘sherry’. De­spite hav­ing his own su­perb ter­roir, he seemed in­tent on us­ing the name of some­one else’s. He was a nice chap, but I kind of went off him when I saw those. Paul Davis, Wim­ble­don, Lon­don

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