Chilean Sauvignon Blanc

Despite tough recent vintages, development and refinements continue apace, and the long-term signs are good for quality Sauvignon in Chile, says Peter Richards MW

62 wines tasted Follow our judges’ advice to discover the best options following some difficult recent vintages

Love it or hate it, there’s no denying Sauvignon Blanc’s global popularity and repute. it’s a firm fixture on the Chilean wine scene too, by a significant margin the country’s most widely planted white variety. it pops up in all corners of Chile’s increasingly stretched wine map, from the Atacama desert down to the deep south, by way of coastal extremes and Andean reaches.

it wasn’t always this way. While Sauvignon Blanc has long been a key part of Chile’s wine offering, at one time it was largely confined to the Central valley heartlands of Curicó and Maule. often it wasn’t even real Sauvignon Blanc – instead frequently made from Sauvignonasse (now known to be the same as italy’s Friulano, an entirely different and relatively neutral variety).

Perhaps fittingly – given how well a good Sauvignon washes down the delicious seafood sustained by the chilly Pacific – it was the ocean’s cooling influence that gave pioneering producers the idea to plant whites nearer its shores from the 1980s on. First Casablanca, then San Antonio, and since then a host of promising terroirs where the Pacific’s influence brings a longer season, hence more complex, intense flavours – from Aconcagua Costa to coastal Colchagua (Paredones), Atacama (Huasco), Limarí, elqui and beyond.

explore the styles

More recently, other more inland plantings have added to Sauvignon’s diversity in Chile. Some of these are in Andean territories, with unique soils and microclimates – Laberinto (ribera del Lago) in Maule and Calyptra in Cachapoal are two examples. others look to the cooler, rainier south, surely an area with a bright future (see p18) – Casa Silva’s Lago ranco project is a case in point.

Styles are increasingly varied as a result. traditionally, Chilean Sauvignon sits somewhere between what might be termed the ‘classic’ extrovert New Zealand style and the more restrained old World iterations. these days, you can find everything from invigorating yet subtle styles (often from northern territories like Limarí or Huasco) to tangy, pungent versions (elqui), or the broad, spicy intensity of San Antonio. Casablanca does everything from easygoing styles (valley floor and east) to more aromatic, citric, complex examples from its more coastal westerly hillsides. Getting to know producers and sub-zones is increasingly important in Chilean Sauvignon.

oaked Sauvignon is still a niche trend but one that should be explored more. the growing use of foudres rather than new barrels means more subtle aromatic impact while enhancing texture. other alternative vessels – concrete eggs, stainless steel barrels – are also being used to good effect. Questionable trends like blending with other aromatic varieties (Gewürztraminer, for example) are sadly still in evidence, while the obvious partner Semillon is rarely used.

Although prices have been creeping up of late, it’s still early days. Much still remains to discover, explore, improve and refine. A series of challenging vintages hasn’t made life easy. But Sauvignon Blanc is clearly a variety that will go on to be a strong point for Chile.

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: the facts

National vineyard area 137,375ha Sauvignon Blanc plantings (2016) 14,999ha As % of Chilean vineyard (2006/2016) 7%/11% 10-year change in plantings (2006-2016) +72% Five-year change in plantings (2011-2016) +8% Key regions (planted area) Curicó, Maule, Casablanca, Colchagua Key regions (quality) San Antonio, Limarí, Aconcagua Costa, elqui, Casablanca Production (2017) 123m litres As % of total Chilean fine wine production 15% Rank in Chilean fine wine production 2nd (behind Cabernet Sauvignon) Sources: SAG production report 2017; SAG vineyard register 2016