What I’ve been drink­ing this month

Decanter - - LETTER FROM CHILE -

A re­minder that wine is com­pelling be­cause it is di­verse. First off, a blind show­down saw the very fine Cullen, Diana Made­line 2004 (ex­u­ber­ant and pow­er­ful) and Te Mata, Col­eraine 2005 (re­fined and cleans­ing) bested by a com­plex, poised and stun­ning Château Haut- Brion 1995, drink­ing beau­ti­fully now. Then to the Lon­don Wine Fair, where a mot­ley band of small pro­duc­ers from Itata were mak­ing hay – two cap­ti­vat­ing wines were the funky, flor-aged field-blend rosé Ter­roir Sonoro, Rep­til­iano 2016 and the scented, el­e­gantly tex­tured or­ange wine Tierra del Itata 2016.

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