Telmo Rodríguez initially made his mark in Rioja, where at the family bodega of Remelluri he created a unique and delicious white wine that was a blend of nine varieties. He subsequently travelled and worked across Spain, setting up a series of projects in very different regions, which earned him the profile of an archetypal renegade, ready to break new ground. Yet his success risked transforming him into an establishment figure. On his return to Rioja, he could have settled into a confident, comfortable routine. But that has never been his way. The result of his strict focus on single parcels, on viticulture and growers, has resulted in some exceptional single-vineyard wines. A new arrival to look out for is Tabuerniga, beside the Remelluri vineyards. It’s a companion to the very elegant and refined Las Beatas. Keep an eye on this particular renegade – there is more to come.