One of the centenarian bodegas in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación station district. David González is the front man for the Gómez Cruzado business and he is rapidly transforming it, with help from his viticulturist partner Juan Antonio Leza. The duo are less renegades and more innovators. As they have no estate vineyards, they are able to seek out a range of fruit from distinctive sites. Honorable is their classic Rioja, but keep an eye out for exciting new releases from them, which focus on terroir wines. These include the cool, higher-altitude Garnacha-Tempranillo blend Pancrudo. Their white wines are particularly interesting: notably Montes Obarenes, named after its chilly mountain origin, the 2015 a blend of Viura with 25% Tempranillo Blanco, which is partially fermented and aged in concrete eggs.
Juan Antonio Leza (left) and David González