David González

Decanter - - RIOJA -

One of the cen­te­nar­ian bode­gas in Haro’s Bar­rio de la Estación sta­tion district. David González is the front man for the Gómez Cruzado busi­ness and he is rapidly trans­form­ing it, with help from his viti­cul­tur­ist part­ner Juan An­to­nio Leza. The duo are less rene­gades and more in­no­va­tors. As they have no es­tate vine­yards, they are able to seek out a range of fruit from dis­tinc­tive sites. Honor­able is their clas­sic Rioja, but keep an eye out for ex­cit­ing new re­leases from them, which fo­cus on ter­roir wines. These in­clude the cool, higher-al­ti­tude Gar­nacha-Tem­pranillo blend Pan­crudo. Their white wines are par­tic­u­larly in­ter­est­ing: notably Montes Obarenes, named af­ter its chilly moun­tain ori­gin, the 2015 a blend of Viura with 25% Tem­pranillo Blanco, which is par­tially fer­mented and aged in con­crete eggs.

Juan An­to­nio Leza (left) and David González

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