Chris Sherville

Devon Life - - Inside -

You know those morn­ings: nau­sea, world end­ing ‘I’d rather get Taz­ered’ nau­sea, when the pres­ence of light is like star­ing at the burn­ing sands of Dante’s sev­enth cir­cle of hell and your tongue feels like the cat slept in your mouth. Yes, you have a hang­over and you feel like there is no cure for it. Well, I might just have some ideas to help… Based on the rice dishes of my youth, this is an adap­ta­tion of a Malay and Philipino break­fast which mar­ries rice, eggs and chilli in many dif­fer­ent forms. It is a dish of pro­found com­fort and restora­tive power. It has no prej­u­dice, it can be vege­tar­ian, or not, as the sit­u­a­tion re­quires, and can be eaten early in the day or late in the af­ter­noon, sit­ting up­right or re­clin­ing as the cir­cum­stance dic­tates.

‘I once col­lapsed into a mas­sage chair with half an hour of pure oxy­gen at an air­port in South East Asia… it got me on the air­craft’

Cold, cooked rice is the ideal, ei­ther from the fridge or freshly cooked and al­lowed to sit, a cloth draped over the sieve to steam and dry it out a lit­tle (It is not my busi­ness to judge, but any­one who cooks the rice the night be­fore, in ex­pec­ta­tion of this break­fast, might wish to ex­am­ine their drink­ing habits).

It is kill or cure and I up the quan­tity of chilli in di­rect pro­por­tion to the qual­ity, quan­tity, or mix­ture of what I drank the night be­fore. Is it hair of the dog, or hair of the pack of wolves?

IN­GRE­DI­ENTS

75-100g of Bas­mati rice per per­son, dry weight, cooked and cooled 2-3 slices of dry cured streaky ba­con per per­son 1 fat clove of gar­lic per per­son ½-1 tsp dry chilli flakes A few shakes of soy sauce (Kikko­man for choice), to taste 1 egg + 1 egg per per­son

METHOD

Slice the ba­con into lar­dons and fry in a gen­er­ous saucepan with a lit­tle olive oil un­til brown and crispy. Add gar­lic and chilli flakes and al­low to fry on a medium heat for a cou­ple of min­utes.

Add rice and get ev­ery grain cov­ered in the lovely gar­licky, ba­con and chilli oil. Crack an egg into the rice and stir to mix in thor­oughly then sea­son with black pep­per and soy sauce.

In a sep­a­rate pan heat a ta­ble­spoon of olive oil and fry an egg per per­son. Slip onto the rice and take to the ta­ble, an­other shake of soy sauce, and if you are up for it, a finely chopped fresh green bird’s eye chilli scat­tered over the top takes this to the ul­ti­mate. Ba­con can be re­placed with spring onions or mush­rooms for a vege­tar­ian.

With a dou­ble strength, heav­ily spiced Bloody Mary, spritzed with fresh lime just be­fore drink­ing, or a pot of Cal­va­dos cof­fee on the side, you will be tak­ing the first ner­vous steps to­wards re­cov­ery.

OTHER TRA­DI­TIONAL CURES

Pick­led plums (Ume­boshi), Ja­pan. Oooh, pucker up. Tripe soup, Ro­ma­nia. Are you in­sane? Pouline, Canada. Chips with gravy and melted cheese curds. Hmmm, add some Sriracha for me. Green tea, Cal­i­for­nia. Nah! That’s for gym bun­nies. Prairie oys­ter: Brandy, Worces­ter sauce, Tabasco, red wine vine­gar and a raw egg. Make mine a dou­ble yolker with a large shot. I once col­lapsed into a mas­sage chair with half an hour of pure oxy­gen at an air­port in South East Asia…it got me on the air­craft. Dial­y­sis. Un­for­tu­nately, a waste of NHS re­sources.

Chris does cook­ery classes and work­shops from The Kitchen in Dart­ing­ton. More de­tails at chris­sh­erville.com

This month in his quar­terly col­umn chef has some foodie sugges­tions to tackle the morn­ing after the night be­foreCHRIS SHERVILLE

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