Black Dog Deli, Wal­ber­swick

EADT Suffolk - - Food -

Most peo­ple leav­ing the rat race of Lon­don, for a slice of coun­try life in Suf­folk, rel­ish the idea of a more stress-free pace of liv­ing. But chef An­drew Storer, who re­turned to the county four years ago, af­ter 20 years work­ing in the city, says he’s more rushed off his feet than ever since tak­ing on the Black Dog Deli in Wal­ber­swick in 2015.

“Work­ing for the Roux brothers was a dod­dle com­pared to this,” he laughs. His foodie ven­ture earned him a place as a fi­nal­ist in the Best New­comer cat­e­gory of the EADT Suf­folk Food and Drink Awards this year. An­drew’s pas­sion for cook­ing and mak­ing every­thing from scratch has led to the chef ob­ses­sively chop­ping, stir­ring, rolling and bak­ing a huge amount of prod­ucts for the deli. There’s hardly time for him to stop for cof­fee dur­ing his work­ing day, which typ­i­cally starts at 6.30am and ends around 10pm. It was his ob­ses­sive na­ture and need to sell only the very best that im­pressed the judges.

An­drew doesn’t just make quiches, sausage rolls, sal­ads and cakes. He’s also churn­ing out fresh home­made pasta in the au­tumn and winter months. And such is his rep­u­ta­tion for frozen home cooked ready meals that he’s think­ing about get­ting a pro­duc­tion kitchen and find­ing some­one else to man­age the deli, while he rus­tles up all man­ner of epi­curean de­lights to sup­ply his own busi­ness and other delis and shops.

“My plan was al­ways to open a deli and do some­thing like I do now,” he says. “I try to use my chef skills to make all I can. My kitchen is tiny, and I think what we can do in that tiny kitchen is amaz­ing. I try to keep it dif­fer­ent all the time.”

At the mo­ment he’s busy pack­ing up pic­nic boxes for daytrip­pers to Wal­ber­swick, filled with hot chorizo salad, dressed crab salad, or maybe one of his much-loved sausage rolls with salad. His oven is work­ing over­time bak­ing brown­ies, flap­jacks and dainty fan­cies stud­ded with lo­cal rasp­ber­ries for the hun­dreds of peo­ple flock­ing to the coast at the week­ends.

As cooler weather sets in, and he re­duces the shop hours to Wed­nes­day to Sun­day, An­drew’s trusty pasta ma­chine will come out. It’s well worth mak­ing a trip to the shop just for a box of his de­li­cious pasta. He can make around 400 pieces – from lan­gous­tine ravi­oli to wild mush­room and truf­fle ca­son­celli – at a time, and they sell out in a flash.

“Pasta’s a big thing for me here. I love mak­ing it. With my wife be­ing Ital­ian I spent six months there and did a stage (in­tern­ship) try­ing to learn how to make pasta. It’s hard work in this lit­tle kitchen!

“I’m very proud of what I can do here. I be­came a chef be­cause I love food – I’ve been cook­ing since I was 13 years old. And the feed­back is in­cred­i­ble, peo­ple re­ally do like us and of­ten say to me, ‘You’re the per­son who makes this place, and that’s some­thing be­cause the food’s amaz­ing’.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.