Mea­sure of a man

Style di­rec­tor Teo van den Broeke ap­praises Canali’s Su Misura lux­ury tai­lor­ing ser­vice

Esquire (UK) - - Style -

In the UK, brides spend an av­er­age of £913 on their wed­ding dress. Grooms, on the other hand, spend a com­par­a­tively measly av­er­age of £84: an amount which

— to Esquire’s mind at least — wouldn’t buy one good shoe.

With wed­dings, whether you’re the groom, an usher or just an ev­ery­day bloke in the pews, it’s im­por­tant to look like you’ve made an ef­fort. Drag out your old win­ter suit for a sum­mer wed­ding and it will look like you’ve dragged out your old win­ter suit for a sum­mer wed­ding, only with added sweat patches. Buy some­thing cheap

(for £84, say) and it will look just that.

One sure-fire way to en­sure you’re dressed cor­rectly is to in­vest in a made-to-mea­sure suit. Un­like be­spoke ser­vices, which al­low cus­tomers to se­lect ev­ery de­tail, but also tend to be pro­hib­i­tively ex­pen­sive, made-to-mea­sure ser­vices al­low suit buy­ers to pick from a series of blocks to best fit their frame, have all ele­ments tai­lored to their mea­sure­ments, and se­lect fab­rics, lin­ings, but­tons and fin­ish­ing de­tails.

This sum­mer, with sev­eral wed­dings on the hori­zon — and me be­ing en­sconced firmly in the role of ev­ery­day bloke in the pews — I turned to Canali for a madeto-mea­sure suit. The brand’s Su Misura (hand­made) ser­vice of­fers a choice of six blocks, rang­ing from the slim-cut Venezia Con­tem­po­rary to the soft-shoul­dered Firenzi.

Each suit is com­pleted in Canali’s Ital­ian fac­tory with many as­pects, such as the sleeves, hand stitched, tak­ing six-to-eight weeks.

Elis­a­betta Canali, group com­mu­ni­ca­tions di­rec­tor at Canali, says, “Our Su Misura ser­vice rep­re­sents the high­est ex­pres­sion of that pre­oc­cu­pa­tion with qual­ity, at­ten­tion to de­tail and fo­cus on the client that lay at the heart of the Canali way of do­ing things. The re­sult­ing suit is per­son­alised in ev­ery de­tail to cre­ate a gar­ment which ex­presses the taste and ele­gance of the man who wears it.”

Un­der the watch­ful eye of Canali’s Bond Street bou­tique man­ager, I se­lected a sin­gle-breasted Kei jacket with a slim notch lapel paired with a ta­pered Venezia trouser with a turn-up. The Kei is more breath­able than other styles, and the shoul­ders are fin­ished with min­i­mal padding. From the 500 fab­rics on of­fer, I opted for a rich, petrol-green wool/silk/linen mix (71, 15 and 14 per cent re­spec­tively).

De­spite pop­u­lar be­lief, if wool is spun finely enough it can be ex­tremely breath­able. The com­bi­na­tion of the crisp, high-twist wool, ul­tra­light silk and su­per-breath­able linen make it the per­fect fab­ric choice for sum­mer. The off-kil­ter shade will make just enough of a state­ment with­out over­shad­ow­ing the groom — un­less he’s wear­ing an £84 suit.

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