Carb your enthusiasm

a pasta-only place in London’s Soho (home to many of the nation’s most body-conscious and trend-driven punters — including the staff of Esquire), would have been greeted with puzzlement bordering on derision. But that was before Trullo, in north London, gave birth to Padella, in Borough Market, with its permanent queues and its clientele of slinky-hipped pasta-heads. Now Stevie Parle, of Rotorino and Palatino, opens Pastaio, offering tonarelli cacio e pepe; potato and gravy ravioli; grouse, rabbit and pork agnoli; and more, from £7 to £11. Plus antipasti, Aperol slushies, Italian wines, spirits and beers. And Tom Dixon is doing the interior: final proof that a plate of pasta is 2017’s hip dish. A few years ago, when the most influential dietician on the planet was Dr Atkins (remember him?), and carbs were the enemy of all civilisation, the news that a top restaurateur was opening

19 Ganton Street, London W1