Carb your en­thu­si­asm

Esquire (UK) - - Style -

a pasta-only place in Lon­don’s Soho (home to many of the na­tion’s most body-con­scious and trend-driven pun­ters — in­clud­ing the staff of Esquire), would have been greeted with puz­zle­ment bor­der­ing on de­ri­sion. But that was be­fore Trullo, in north Lon­don, gave birth to Padella, in Bor­ough Mar­ket, with its per­ma­nent queues and its clien­tele of slinky-hipped pasta-heads. Now Ste­vie Parle, of Ro­torino and Palatino, opens Pas­taio, of­fer­ing tonarelli ca­cio e pepe; potato and gravy ravi­oli; grouse, rab­bit and pork ag­noli; and more, from £7 to £11. Plus an­tipasti, Aperol slushies, Ital­ian wines, spir­its and beers. And Tom Dixon is do­ing the in­te­rior: fi­nal proof that a plate of pasta is 2017’s hip dish. A few years ago, when the most in­flu­en­tial dietician on the planet was Dr Atkins (re­mem­ber him?), and carbs were the en­emy of all civil­i­sa­tion, the news that a top restau­ra­teur was open­ing

19 Gan­ton Street, Lon­don W1

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