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in 1962. Mr Panopolous died in June this year.)
But pizza purists will go even further, many maintaining there are only two acceptable types of pizza: marinara and Margherita. The former is named after the sailors among whom it was popular in Naples in the mid-18th century. It consists of tomato, garlic, oregano and olive oil. No cheese and certainly no seafood.
The latter, arguably the greatest food invention of the last 150 years, is an essential dish in the repertoire of any serious cook, accidental or otherwise. Resembling the Italian flag colours and named after the country’s Queen Margherita in the late 1800s, it could, if you insisted, be made with cheap, rubbery mozzarella (and often is) but I prefer this luscious version with the creamy buffalo variety.
Once you’ve mastered it, add olives, anchovies, capers, meatballs and other delicious aberrations to your heart’s content. Just no pineapple.
Heritage winter coats pop up at Harrods: Jean-Paul Belmondo, seen here in 1960, would approve
Naples staple: tomato passata, mozzarella and basil leaves combine in the Neapolitan classic