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Esquire (UK) - - Style -

in 1962. Mr Panopolous died in June this year.)

But pizza purists will go even fur­ther, many main­tain­ing there are only two ac­cept­able types of pizza: mari­nara and Margherita. The for­mer is named af­ter the sailors among whom it was pop­u­lar in Naples in the mid-18th cen­tury. It con­sists of tomato, gar­lic, oregano and olive oil. No cheese and cer­tainly no seafood.

The lat­ter, ar­guably the great­est food in­ven­tion of the last 150 years, is an es­sen­tial dish in the reper­toire of any se­ri­ous cook, ac­ci­den­tal or other­wise. Re­sem­bling the Ital­ian flag colours and named af­ter the coun­try’s Queen Margherita in the late 1800s, it could, if you in­sisted, be made with cheap, rub­bery moz­zarella (and of­ten is) but I pre­fer this lus­cious ver­sion with the creamy buf­falo va­ri­ety.

Once you’ve mas­tered it, add olives, an­chovies, capers, meat­balls and other de­li­cious aber­ra­tions to your heart’s con­tent. Just no pineap­ple.

Her­itage win­ter coats pop up at Har­rods: Jean-Paul Bel­mondo, seen here in 1960, would ap­prove

Naples sta­ple: tomato pas­sata, moz­zarella and basil leaves com­bine in the Neapoli­tan clas­sic

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