For the larger man of be­low av­er­age height

Ed­ward Sex­ton

Esquire (UK) - - Style -

“For the over­weight man, a struc­tured gar­ment will wear bet­ter, hold its press and be more re­sis­tant to pres­sures on the fab­ric. We of­ten cut the jacket shoul­ders slightly wider than the cus­tomer’s ac­tual shoul­der so there’s a line to their waist, cre­at­ing the il­lu­sion of shape. It is also im­per­a­tive that the jacket doesn’t pull at the waist but­ton. A waistcoat can be very flat­ter­ing for a larger man, cov­er­ing much of the shirt, while a deep plung­ing V-shape can be slim­ming. A waistcoat also works well with braced trousers which is the best so­lu­tion for a gen­tle­man with a big tummy. And avoid go­ing too nar­row on the legs. To some ex­tent, the wider the leg, the lower on the shoe the trouser sits, so a longer trouser makes the leg look longer, but the trouser cuff should just sit on the shoe, cre­at­ing a slight break in the shin area.”

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