Dis­cover tas ste for ad­ven­ture

Inn takes pride in tra­di­tional food cooked to per­fec­tion

Evening Express (City Final) - The Guide - - EATING OUT - By David Ewen

THE Mains of Scot­stown Inn is hid­den among the homes of Aberdeen’s Bridge of Don. For­tu­nately, it’s well sign-posted but it’s still some­thing of a sur­prise to find the build­ing at the end of the road. The inn prides it­self on sourc­ing the best lo­cal food, and that ethic in­cludes the ser­vice too. The visit got off to a good start with a prompt of­fer to take a drinks or­der – a big glass of Shi­raz (£4.15) and sparkling wa­ter (£2.10). We were head­ing to see comic John Bishop at the AECC and, know­ing that would mean a fair bit of queu­ing, we ar­rived just be­fore 6pm. We had ex­pected it to be quiet, but within half-hour it was buzzing. The menu is a model of clar­ity – colour­ful but not gar­ish, with in­formed but re­strained de­scrip­tions. Menu sta­ples in­clude steak (with hand­cut chips), roast loin of Grampian veni­son, beef

olives, mac­a­roni cheese, and chicken with oat­meal. How­ever, what dis­tin­guishes the Mains of Scot­stown is the ad­ven­tur­ous na­ture of some dishes. For a starter I chose hot smoked Peterheid salmon – a bun­dle of flakes served on a large sun­dried tomato crou­ton. An­other crou­ton car­ried a poached egg cov­ered with Bear­naise sauce. A great com­bi­na­tion, with a bed of rocket leaves pro­vid­ing a pep­pery edge. My wife chose a chicken and black pud­ding roulade for starter. And she opted for a sec­ond starter fea­tur­ing black pud­ding rather than a main. The slice of pud­ding, which had pro­por­tions to shame some burg­ers, was a base for Or­ca­dian scal­lops. (The twist came in the shape of pome­gran­ate seeds, sprin­kled like ru­bies over the dish.) The fruiti­ness – not too sweet – en­hanced an al­ready po­tent combo. From the spe­cials board, I

or­dered sea bass on ri­cotta ravi­oli bound with a roasted plum tomato and basil sauce. The line-caught fish – two fil­lets – was again splen­didly cooked, re­tain­ing its firm­ness and fresh­ness. And the pasta was much the same, with flaky cheese in­side the parcels. At a time when He­ston Blu­men­thal is do­ing a roar­ing trade in cod in cider and savoury por­ridge, sea bass and ravi­oli might seem pos­i­tively con­ven­tional. But I can only re­port that I found my­self eat­ing the fish sep­a­rately so the del­i­cate flavour wasn’t lost to the sauce. To fin­ish, we had a dark chocolate torte and cham­pagne sor­bet, served with man­darin com­pote. We had in­tended to share it, one ro­man­tic spoon­ful at a time, but it was so good we ended up squab­bling over it.

13 El­phin­stone Road, In­verurie

HELP­FUL: Martin Gibb, left, Amy Gibb, Michelle Cow­ell, Graham Robb and Jonny McGre­gor at Mains Of Scot­stown, Aberdeen. TREAT: Les­lie Gor­don, left, Clair Smith, Christo­pher Smith, Cameron Smith, Ge­orge Smith and Colin Gor­don.

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