Anish Patel sits down with Rankin, Oliver Spencer and Gary Kemp to discuss the changing face of male dressing and David Bowie’s incredible legacy
On a grey January afternoon in Kentish Town, the actor Gary Kemp, the designer Oliver Spencer and the photographer Rankin are debating the merits of worsted versus herringbone. ‘We’re far ahead in menswear compared with any other capital,’ says Spencer, 47. He should know — he once sold second-hand clothing on Portobello Road before setting up formalwear company Favourbrook in 1990 and his eponymous line a decade later. Not that the others are slouches: Kemp, 56, is known for his dapper tastes and is one of 11 pals Spencer has featured in his latest campaign, which Rankin, 49, has shot. So what does men’s style mean today? To celebrate London Collections Men fashion week, we invited the three to discuss just that. How did the collaboration come about? Oliver Spencer: Rankin had been a customer of mine for a couple of years and we were waiting to work on something together. Gary just walked into the shop one day and we hit it off. He’s an absolute legend and what London is all about. Working with someone like him is amazing. Gary Kemp: When you get to my age  and you’re being asked to model clothes, you’re just grateful. I couldn’t quite believe it… OS: I really don’t care if you’re 18 or 80. I want a point of view, someone who’s got an eccentricity about him and wears clothes beautifully. Rankin: It was a meeting of two minds. I like shooting interesting people, especially with menswear — their personalities come through.
Three-piece suit From left: Rankin, Oliver Spencer and Gary Kemp