LON­DON CALL­ING

Anish Pa­tel sits down with Rankin, Oliver Spencer and Gary Kemp to dis­cuss the chang­ing face of male dress­ing and David Bowie’s in­cred­i­ble legacy

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On a grey Jan­uary af­ter­noon in Ken­tish Town, the ac­tor Gary Kemp, the de­signer Oliver Spencer and the pho­tog­ra­pher Rankin are de­bat­ing the mer­its of worsted ver­sus her­ring­bone. ‘We’re far ahead in menswear com­pared with any other cap­i­tal,’ says Spencer, 47. He should know — he once sold se­cond-hand cloth­ing on Por­to­bello Road be­fore set­ting up for­mal­wear com­pany Favour­brook in 1990 and his epony­mous line a decade later. Not that the oth­ers are slouches: Kemp, 56, is known for his dap­per tastes and is one of 11 pals Spencer has fea­tured in his lat­est cam­paign, which Rankin, 49, has shot. So what does men’s style mean to­day? To cel­e­brate Lon­don Col­lec­tions Men fash­ion week, we in­vited the three to dis­cuss just that. How did the col­lab­o­ra­tion come about? Oliver Spencer: Rankin had been a cus­tomer of mine for a cou­ple of years and we were wait­ing to work on some­thing to­gether. Gary just walked into the shop one day and we hit it off. He’s an ab­so­lute leg­end and what Lon­don is all about. Work­ing with some­one like him is amaz­ing. Gary Kemp: When you get to my age [56] and you’re be­ing asked to model clothes, you’re just grate­ful. I couldn’t quite be­lieve it… OS: I re­ally don’t care if you’re 18 or 80. I want a point of view, some­one who’s got an ec­cen­tric­ity about him and wears clothes beau­ti­fully. Rankin: It was a meet­ing of two minds. I like shoot­ing in­ter­est­ing peo­ple, es­pe­cially with menswear — their per­son­al­i­ties come through.

Three-piece suit From left: Rankin, Oliver Spencer and Gary Kemp

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