The Palomar
Piccadilly
Set in Theatreland, The Palomar is a performance worth watching in itself. Pull up a stool at the zinc bar for a front-row view of the kitchen. Chefs shout orders, dishes sizzle in the charcoal oven and the maître d’ bops to blaring music as he takes orders. Expect fast-paced small plates that showcase the modern food of Jerusalem. Start by mopping up thick tahini and velvety tomato dips with warm Yemeni bread. Polenta with mushroom ragout, parmesan and truffle oil is seriously good, as is a deconstructed kebab with harissa and tapenade.
LF. 020 7439 8777, thepalomar.co.uk