Courses and deli

We go inside the kitchens at Daylesford and stock the pantry in Cheltenham

One of Britain’s best-known estates is also home to one of the country’s leading cookery schools. Daylesford, set in a 810ha holding in the heart of Gloucestershire, is a mecca for everything organic.

From the freshly picked vegetables to the livestock grazing its fields, all the ingredients used by the school originate from the farm. I’m here for a nose-to-tail butchery course with tutor James Hearfield, a self-confessed meat lover.

First, we tackle a chicken. Nervously holding a boning knife, I cut between the joint and am instantly relieved at how easily the two wings come away. Removing the leg is a little more challenging; I slice the skin away from the meat, firmly pulling until it pops out of the socket. When it comes to removing the breasts, James says: ‘Keep the knife close to the bone and slice smoothly. Do not saw.’

While demonstrating how to make stock with the leftover bones – nothing at Daylesford is wasted – James goes on to explain how you can tell if chickens have roamed outside. ‘The body will be long and pointed and legs plump from exercise.’

Next, we gather around a sturdy wooden butcher’s block as a lamb is broken down. After a few deft incisions with a mildly menacing 38cm knife, I prise off the leg before it is filleted and opened out like a book. ‘It’s an easy job,’ claims James, ‘just let the knife do the work.’ Soon the lamb resembles recognisable cuts: shoulder, chops and even French-trimmed ribs. ‘Cuts from the front of the animal reward braising, while legs favour roasting,’ he tells us.

We then move on to a side of pork, transforming it into hocks, rumps, loin, cutlets, ribs, chops, shanks, saddles and neck steaks. I volunteer to try my hand at removing the shoulder, making a nip in the flesh with the boning knife and slicing it close to the bone with a steak blade. Puling the muscle with every ounce of my strength, it eventually gives way. Finally, we end the day whittling down a mid-section of beef to form succulent T-bone, sirloin, fillet and rump steaks.

While I may not attempt butchery in my tiny London kitchen, I leave with a greater appreciation of where my favourite cuts come from, as well as a huge amount of respect for my local butcher. CM. Full-day nose-to-tail butchery course costs £185. daylesford.com