LIN­DAU

Food and Travel (UK) - - City Breaks -

A pic­turesque town on Lake Con­stance, this Ger­man des­ti­na­tion is an Alpine charmer, home to a me­dieval cen­tre and beau­ti­ful har­bour, as Blos­som Green dis­cov­ers

Why go Sit­ting pretty on Lake Con­stance, Lin­dau is an idyl­lic blend of old style and out­door liv­ing. A rel­a­tively tiny speck of an is­land close to the Aus­trian bor­der and framed by Alpine moun­tains, it’s known for its tra­di­tional old town, Mediter­ranean green­ery and un­hur­ried pace. Re­ferred to as the ‘Bavar­ian Riviera’, now is the ideal time to ex­plore the wind­ing streets en route to the har­bour and dip a toe into the wa­ter, which reaches 22C. This month, the two-day wine fes­ti­val Komm und See (7-8 July) sees 12 winer­ies in Lin­dau and the sur­round­ing lake area cel­e­brate their lo­cal bins. We’ll drink to that. kom­mund­see.de

What to do Ex­pect an easy-go­ing vibe here in spite of a fraught past, which has seen it change be­tween Aus­trian and Bavar­ian rule. Vis­ually, Lin­dau is a town held in time. It was once the stomp­ing ground of 19th-cen­tury well-to-do­ers, who snapped up land on the shores of the lake to build el­e­gant vil­las, which still stand. To­day, the me­dieval streets of the old town are home to trendy cafés and bou­tique shops that sit side-by-side with colour­ful his­tor­i­cal build­ings such as the gothic Town Hall and Church of St Peter. A wan­der along the sweep­ing Max­i­m­il­ianstrasse brings you into the thick of it. The wide pedes­tri­anised street gives way to twist­ing al­leys rem­i­nis­cent of York’s Sham­bles and squares filled with al­fresco din­ers, while ar­ti­san jew­ellery and un­usual wares are sold from an­cient gabled houses. At its east­ern end, the Mark­t­platz hosts an open-air farmer’s mar­ket on Satur­days, and Wed­nes­days from April to Oc­to­ber. Sam­ple lo­cal fruits and spe­cial­ity cheeses such as pi­quant All­gäu as you watch fish­er­men tout their hauls fresh from Lake Con­stance. Cul­ture vul­tures should hit up the nearby Stadt­mu­seum kul­tur-lin­dau.de where works by avant-garde painter Paul Klee are show­ing un­til 27 Au­gust. From here, it’s a short walk to the shores of the lake and the har­bour en­trance, with its 33m-tall light­house and statue of the Bavar­ian Lion. Climb the light­house’s 139 steps to the view­ing plat­form (around £2.20) for stun­ning panora­mas be­fore re­lax­ing in the palm-laden Stadt­garten.

Travel in­for­ma­tion

Cur­rency is the euro. Time is one hour ahead of GMT. Flight time from Lon­don is around 4.5 hours dur­ing the sum­mer months, with di­rect flights run­ning De­cem­ber through April. The cost to car­bon-off­set is £2.06. For more de­tails visit cli­mate­care.org

Get­ting there

Lufthansa flies from Lon­don Heathrow via Frank­furt to Bo­densee Air­port Friedrichshafen, which is 27km away. lufthansa.com

AV­ER­AGE DAILY TEM­PER­A­TURES AND RAIN­FALL

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Jun Where to stay Bou­tique Adara adara-lin­dau.de in Al­ter Schulplatz com­prises four 13th-cen­tury houses, and the de­sign of the 14 rooms merges orig­i­nal stonework and wooden beams with mu­rals and a neu­tral pal­ette. The fam­ily run Lin­dauer Hof lin­dauer­hof.de has served vis­i­tors for nearly 40 years. Each of the 30 rooms are in­di­vid­u­ally de­signed, and its rusty red fa­cade and jagged roof act as a bea­con all of its own from its po­si­tion on the har­bour’s promenade. Take a peek out of your be­d­room win­dow at five-star Ho­tel Bay­er­isher Hof bay­erischer­hof-lin­dau.de and wit­ness the Bavar­ian Lion proudly perched over the glis­ten­ing lake. The decor is fresh and there’s a gar­den area and out­door pool.

Where to eat At a cross­roads of cul­tures, Lin­dau’s Ger­man bor­ders tickle both Switzer­land and Aus­tria, re­sult­ing in a cui­sine that en­com­passes the best of each, while its lake­side lo­cale en­sures only that the fresh­est fish land on your plate. Valentin bio-lo­gisch.bay­ern serves dishes us­ing or­ganic and bio­dy­namic in­gre­di­ents. On a warm day, the shady ter­race makes a won­der­ful back­drop to plates of white­fish and herb salad and savoury röstis with ser­rano ham and rocket, while home­made heather sor­bet to fin­ish is a cool taste of the moun­tains. Strand­haus strand­haus.li is the per­fect sum­mer pit stop. Lit­er­ally. Its spe­cial­ity is bar­be­cue – meat from the Swabia re­gion is cooked on a low heat for 12 hours, then dished up with home­made spät­zle noo­dles in a fam­ily style buf­fet that’s best washed down with Bavar­ian beer. Gasthof Alte Post alte-post-lin­dau.de is full of charm. Set in an old post of­fice build­ing, the menu will make you feel like you’ve crossed the lake to Vo­rarl­berg as you dine on clas­sics such as wiener schnitzel. Time run­ning out Make like the lo­cals and hire a bike to catch the sun set­ting at Hin­tere Insel. To the west of the har­bour, it’s more peace­ful, so perch on the wall and take it all in. eu­ro­cy­cles.com Trip tip Join the ebb and flow of sail boats on Lake Con­stance to cool off and catch the breeze with an hour-long tour of the Bay of Bre­genz (£8.70pp). ms-bay­ern.de Re­sources

Lin­dau Tourism is the of­fi­cial tourist board, of­fer­ing use­ful tips on how to get the most out of your visit to the area. lin­dau.de

Fur­ther read­ing

A Gush­ing Foun­tain by Martin Walser (Ar­cade Pub­lish­ing, £19.46) is a semi-au­to­bi­o­graph­i­cal ac­count of a child­hood af­fected by the rise of Nazism in a small Lake Con­stance town.

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