Where to eat
Prices are per person for a three courses, with half a bottle of wine, unless otherwise stated.
Agava Slightly elevated from the buzzing street below, professionalism shines through in every dish. There is a strong Mediterranean streak in the wide choice of dishes, from tagliolini with pumpkin and Gorgonzola to gilthead fillet with chive emulsion and roasted Sicilian potatoes. From £30. Tkalcˇic´eva 39, 00 385 1 482 9826, restaurant-agava.hr
Dubravkin Put The beautiful wooded location conceals a highly sophisticated minimalist interior. Outstanding plates include prawn soup, deconstructed vitello tonnato (an Italian veal dish) and sweetbreads in herb and pistachio crust. Exceptional wine list. Seven-course tasting menu from £50. Dubravkin Put 2, 00 385 1 975 4834, dubravkin-put.com
Lari & Penati Named after Roman household gods, the menu changes daily. Perch on high stools, enjoy the excellent range of light dishes, ribs and wings, then decamp to its new Croatian wine bar next door. A large plate and half bottle of wine cost from £10.
Petrinjska 42A, 00 385 1 465 5776, laripenati.hr
Mali Bar The small, unfussy bistro is regularly packed for the vibrant dishes from TV chef Ana Ugarkovic. The Croatian version of marketled tapas might include homemade chicken liver and foie gras pâté, breaded and fried monkfish cheeks with Thai dressing and salad with nasturtium, or sticky and spicy chicken wings with tzatziki. From £25.
Vlaška 63, 00 385 1 553 1014
Pod Grickim Topom Frequented by politicians and visiting dignitaries (Hillary Clinton, to name one), the terrace is the place to be on a sunny day. Regional and classic Croatian cooking at its best includes veal baked under a peka (a bell-shaped oven), shrimp risotto and sea bream with white wine sauce. From £25.
Zakmardjeve Stube 5, 00 385 1 483 3607
Vinodol A local favourite, the food here never disappoints. Central European specialties include cream of porcini soup in a bread loaf, spit-roast lamb, veal, steaks and trout with almonds. Twice a week they bake soparnik (cheese and chard pie) – be sure to get there on time. From £25. Teslina 10, 00 385 1 481 1427, vinodol-zg.hr
Zinfandel’s The beautiful restaurant at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel has a lovely terrace for alfresco dining. Chef Ana Grgic is one of the leading Croatian campaigners for sustainable fishing, and exciting menus including John Dory with yellow carrot foam and black lentils are testament to this. Five-course tasting menu from £55. Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, Mihanoviceva 1, 00 385 1 456 6666, esplanade.hr