gourmet

Matsuhisa Munich

Nobu restaurants require no introduction but many people may be unaware the Japanese chef also has a ‘black-label’ brand, Matsuhisa. It focuses on the same Nikkei principles that brought Nobu his fame, but in smaller rooms, using even betterquality ingredients and more advanced processes.

Munich’s Matsuhisa outpost is set on the second floor of the Mandarin Oriental, with a seriously classy, ultra-modern interior. Dark wood plays with leather and dimmed lighting. Ostensibly, it’s simple. Nothing is allowed to distract diners from the star of the evening: the food. ‘It’s the love I put into each dish that makes the difference,’ Nobu says. ‘In Japan, we call it kokoro.’

And yes, we feel the love. Japanese wagyu beef is so tender it almost melts on the tongue, and toro sashimi is leagues above even the finest raw tuna. A favourite among guests is the yellowtail tartare, but do not miss Nobu’s exquisite wagyu beef new-style sashimi and the salmon tataki with jalapeño dressing. The portions are small, sure, but every single one is nothing short of an adventure – and talking about anything other than the food is nearly impossible. SW. 00 49 89 290 98 1875, mandarinoriental.com/munich