Food and Travel (UK) - - Tried & Tasted -

Mat­suhisa Mu­nich

Nobu restau­rants re­quire no in­tro­duc­tion but many peo­ple may be un­aware the Ja­panese chef also has a ‘black-la­bel’ brand, Mat­suhisa. It fo­cuses on the same Nikkei prin­ci­ples that brought Nobu his fame, but in smaller rooms, us­ing even bet­terqual­ity in­gre­di­ents and more ad­vanced pro­cesses.

Mu­nich’s Mat­suhisa out­post is set on the sec­ond floor of the Man­darin Ori­en­tal, with a se­ri­ously classy, ul­tra-mod­ern in­te­rior. Dark wood plays with leather and dimmed light­ing. Os­ten­si­bly, it’s sim­ple. Noth­ing is al­lowed to dis­tract din­ers from the star of the evening: the food. ‘It’s the love I put into each dish that makes the dif­fer­ence,’ Nobu says. ‘In Ja­pan, we call it kokoro.’

And yes, we feel the love. Ja­panese wagyu beef is so ten­der it al­most melts on the tongue, and toro sashimi is leagues above even the finest raw tuna. A favourite among guests is the yel­low­tail tartare, but do not miss Nobu’s ex­quis­ite wagyu beef new-style sashimi and the sal­mon tataki with jalapeño dress­ing. The por­tions are small, sure, but ev­ery sin­gle one is noth­ing short of an ad­ven­ture – and talk­ing about any­thing other than the food is nearly im­pos­si­ble. SW. 00 49 89 290 98 1875, man­dari­nori­en­tal.com/mu­nich

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