48 hours Mantua We travel to Lombardy for a fiercely local feast
A big player during the Renaissance, Mantua in Lombardy remains one of Italy’s prominent artistic and intellectual hubs, while also nurturing a fiercely local food scene
Why go? Built on three islands on the Mincio River, a short train ride from Verona, serene Mantua is a trove of cobbled streets, imposing palaces and homely trattorias. Its architectural allure can be largely attributed to the Gonzaga family, who transformed the city from a lowly swamp to a burgeoning cultural centre over their 300-year rule. As testimony to Mantua’s tranquillity, locals favour cycling over driving, while chefs here complement the pace with their emphasis on home cooking. Don’t be fooled by its traditional heritage; Mantua continues to pioneer with its arts programmes, including the Mantova Chamber Music Festival mantovachamber.com which transforms landmarks into concert spaces every spring. What to do The Gonzaga’s opulent taste underpins Mantua, but is displayed at its best in the 500-room Palazzo Ducale mantovaducale.beniculturali.it a building which dominates the city’s main square, Piazza Sordello. Visitors have access to 40 rooms, but head straight to Camera degli Sposi. The intimate bridal chamber, painted by 15th-century court artist Andrea Mantegna between 1465 and 1474, is covered in illusionistic frescoes depicting the family’s extravagant life. Continue with a visit to the Palazzo Te palazzote.it commissioned by Federico II Gonzaga as a hedonistic hideaway for his mistress. Expect a more daring approach to art, as the vividly painted frescoes take on a playful essence re-enacting the forbidden love of Cupid and Psyche in the Chamber of Giants. Be sure to visit Federico’s boldest declaration, squirrelled away at the back of the palace – a grand apartment overlooking a secret garden. Arguably the best-value attraction in town (£1.75pp), the baroque Teatro Scientifico comune.mantova.gov.it is where Mozart performed at the age of 14. Where to stay Spend a night at the stunning and historical 17th-century Casa Museo Palazzo Valenti Gonzaga valentigonzaga.com which has converted some of its first-floor gallery chambers into sumptuous suites. With views across Piazza Sordello and the Ducal Palace, Palazzo Castiglioni palazzocastiglionimantova.com mirrors its extravagant neighbours’ interiors. Preside from the comfort of the Tower Suite that occupies the entire top floor. Ascend the spiral staircase to be met with an 8m-high 13th-century fresco, which is one of the oldest non-religious examples of its kind in Europe. In contrast to the palazzos, but in no way scrimping on luxuries, Casa Poli hotelcasapoli.it is a sleek alternative that serves a devilishly sweet breakfast. Grab an extra slice of the torta elvezia, a layered almond butter cream and zabaglione cake. Where to eat and drink Having started as a humble trattoria, La Locanda delle Grazie 00 39 0376 348 038 has blossomed into a six-room emporium. Order the hearty stracotto d’asino (donkey stew) and wash it down with a local Lambrusco Mantovano, an effervescent red. Many of Mantua’s best restaurants have female chefs at the helm, but none understand the true art of traditional regional cuisine quite like Alessandra Martini at the atmospheric Il Cigno Trattoria dei Martini ristoranteilcignomantova.it – an upmarket trattoria. Order the signature tortelli di zucca, a bold, yellow pumpkin ravioli topped with Amaretti biscuits, followed by the pesche al forno – baked ripe peaches plucked straight from the garden. In the old town, stop by Bar Caravatti barcaravatti.it for a one of their signature cocktails, which are infused with their own brand of vermouth, created using a recipe that dates back as far as 1865. Salumeria Giovanni Bacchi salumeriabacchi.it is the place to go for edible souvenirs. Arrive hungry as Giovanni is generous with his samples. Then stroll to Panificio Freddi panificiofreddi.it whose breads, pastries and cakes are among the best in Mantua. Pick up a portion of la torta di tagliattele – soaked in rum and topped with crunchy, sweet pasta and almonds. Time running out? Take a boat trip around beautiful Lago Superiore and into Lago di Mezzo to see the city from a different perspective. From £8pp. motonaviandes.it Trip tip The Mantova Sabbioneta Card (£17.75pp) grants entry to the majority of Mantua’s churches and monuments. It also includes bus transport and bike share and is valid for 72 hours. home.mantovacard.it