ALLÉNO JOINS THE ELITE IN NEW MICHE­LIN GUIDE

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The much-an­tic­i­pated 2017 Miche­lin Guide France has awarded one or more of its stars to 70 new restau­rants – the largest an­nual in­crease for ten years.

Just one restau­rant was pro­moted to three-star sta­tus, Le 1947 in the lux­ury ski re­sort of Courchevel. Led by chef Yan­nick Alléno, the restau­rant spe­cialises in Savo­yard cui­sine and was praised by Miche­lin as­ses­sors for pro­vid­ing “a mem­o­rable ex­pe­ri­ence” that “will se­duce the palates of the world’s finest gas­tronomes”.

Alléno al­ready has three Miche­lin stars for his Paris restau­rant Pav­il­lon Le­doyen, and joins the il­lus­tri­ous ranks of ‘six-star chefs’ that in­clude Alain Du­casse and Eugénie Bra­zier.

Among other suc­cesses was the Lo­gis de la Cadène, one of the old­est restau­rants in the wine-mak­ing town of Saint-émil­ion, which gained its first star. There will be cel­e­bra­tions, too, on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, af­ter the own­ers of Château Haut-brion saw their Paris restau­rant Le Clarence – which opened in late 2015 and spe­cialises in French clas­sics – awarded two Miche­lin stars.

Other suc­cesses in south-west France in­cluded Gor­don Ram­say’s restau­rant Le Pres­soir d’ar­gent at the In­ter­con­ti­nen­tal Bordeaux Le Grand Hô­tel. Com­bin­ing Bri­tish pro­duce with French culi­nary style, it is one of 12 restau­rants to move up to the two-star cat­e­gory.

Ram­say, the first Bri­tish chef to win two stars in France, said: “To gain our sec­ond star af­ter just 17 months is truly an hon­our and tes­ta­ment to the loy­alty and ded­i­ca­tion of the team and head chef.”

Ho­tel’s tre­ble

The guide can take away stars as well as award them. The restau­rant at Château Cordeil­lan-bages in Pauil­lac, near Bordeaux, re­opens in April with a new young chef at the helm. How­ever, un­der Miche­lin guide­lines, the restau­rant loses its two stars and must re­build a rep­u­ta­tion from scratch.

In Bordeaux, Pierre Gag­naire’s new restau­rant at La Grande Mai­son de Bernard Ma­grez has al­ready gained two stars – re­tain­ing the sta­tus the restau­rant had when Joël Robu­chon was in charge of the kitchens.

In Paris, the Four Sea­sons Hô­tel Ge­orge V be­came the first ho­tel in Europe to have three Miche­lin-starred restau­rants. Le Ge­orge and L’orangerie both gained their first star, even though the re­spec­tive head chefs had been in charge for less than a year, while Le Cinq re­tained its three-star sta­tus.

ABOVE: Chef Yan­nick Alléno ( cen­tre) poses with the Miche­lin Guide 2017 af­ter be­ing awarded three stars for his restau­rant, Le 1947, in Courchevel. Next to him is Fanny Rey, of the Au­berge la Reine Jeanne in Saint-rémy-de-provence, the only new fe­male award-win­ner this year

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