France - - Contents - BY SALLY EAS­TON, MAS­TER OF WINE

Mas­ter of Wine Sally Eas­ton gives us her pick of the best bot­tles to buy.


Henry Fessy, Coteaux Bour­guignons 2016, Bur­gundy The Coteaux Bour­guignons ap­pel­la­tion cov­ers the whole Bur­gundy wine-mak­ing re­gion, in­clud­ing Beau­jo­lais, and all its grape va­ri­eties. Even so, not huge quan­ti­ties are made, and most of it is red, which here means pinot noir or gamay. Henry Fessy is a well-es­tab­lished Beau­jo­lais pro­ducer, and this wine is made en­tirely of gamay. It has juicy, suc­cu­lent rasp­berry and black cherry fruits, with a lit­tle crunch­ing of ground black pep­per pi­quancy. It is light bod­ied and re­fresh­ingly sum­mery. Drink with: Cold cuts or tomato pasta. Marks and Spencer, £9.50 Tel: 0333 014 8000 mark­sand­


Do­maine La­fond, Roc-épine, Lirac Blanc 2015, Rhône Val­ley Less than ten per cent of pro­duc­tion of this south­ern Rhône cru ap­pel­la­tion is white wine. This ex­am­ple is a blend of grenache blanc, rous­sanne and viog­nier, made to ac­cen­tu­ate their pri­mary flavours. Aro­mas of peaches, honey and baked lemon lead into a plump, fleshy palate of Mediter­ranean fruits with sweet-bak­ing pas­try, cin­na­mon and nut­meg spices. It is rich and fullflavoured, with a hint of struc­tural grip that helps to keep an ap­peal­ing fresh­ness. Drink with: Leafy chicken salad. The Ox­ford Wine Com­pany, £14.99. Tel: 01865 301 144 ox­ford­


Michel et Stéphane Ogier, Côte-rôtie 2013, Rhône Val­ley Stéphane Ogier is one of Côte-rôtie’s best pro­duc­ers, mak­ing a silky, rather than mus­cly, style of syrah. This bot­tle is a blend of ten small parcels from the steep slopes of the Côtes Brune and Blonde just south of Vi­enne; it has a sweet, vi­o­let per­fume and a silky, tex­tu­rally se­duc­tive palate of fine, plen­ti­ful dry tan­nins, lay­ered be­tween sum­mer-ripe for­est berries and plums in a com­plex, flavour­some whole. Drink with: Sim­ply cooked lamb chops. Waitrose Cel­lar, £50 Tel: 0800 188 881 wait­rose­cel­

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