IT’S FRESH, AU­THEN­TIC, TRA­DI­TIONAL AND RUS­TIC

NEW RESTAU­RANT JOINS TOP-CLASS FOOD SCENE

Glossop Advertiser - - City Life Local -

EV­ERY time I visit some­where on Chapel Street - Lupo Caffe Ital­iano, Kings Arms, An­other Heart to Feed, The New Ox­ford etc - I end up de­scrib­ing them as ‘hid­den gems’ in a bur­geon­ing in­ner city area. It’s prob­a­bly not fair. The Sal­ford cor­ri­dor that touches the Manch­ester bor­der is fully fledged, de­spite the area it­self be­ing barely halfway through a 25-year re­mod­elling process.

The busi­nesses men­tioned have been up and run­ning for vary­ing lengths of time but have es­tab­lished them­selves. They have reg­u­lars and are qui­etly de­liv­er­ing some­thing of real value to the area.

It’s en­cour­ag­ing then to see an­other of those places - Vero Moderno - make its way into the Good Food Guide re­cently.

The neigh­bour­hood restau­rant, which opened in June, oc­cu­pies one of the spots in the new­ly­cre­ated Vimto Gar­dens.

Fresh, au­then­tic, tra­di­tional and rus­tic is the vibe here.

At one end is the restau­rant, at the other a deli counter burst­ing with in­ter­est­ing look­ing meats and cheeses. A leg of cured ham sits proudly on top as chefs be­hind make the day’s pasta and check the 48-hour proved pizza dough.

As we set­tle in for a shar­ing board of dry cured meats and buf­falo mozzarella (£18.95), I’m trans­ported back to a re­cent week­end break to Bologna. Warm olive foc­ca­cia and a cold Peroni Gran Ris­erva (£4.50) are de­cent com­pan­ions.

I’m drink­ing Lam­br­usco like it’s Vimto at the minute, but there’s none on the menu sadly.

No wor­ries though, be­cause here comes the daily spe­cial ravi­oli - filled with oc­to­pus in a sim­ple tomato sauce (£12.95). Proof that great flavours don’t have to be steeped in com­plex aes­thetic. The sim­plic­ity shines, the pasta is bite per­fect.

As is the ragu di ag­nello - lamb cooked in a white ragu with mush­room (£13.25). The com­bined flavours are the best bit of a Sun­day roast and a rich, hearty pasta bowl. Four in­gre­di­ents, five stars.

The menu only breaks away from its home style once - with a beef burger ‘Ital­ian style’ (£12.95). Topped with pancetta (smoky) and buf­falo mozzarella (creamy), it’s a fine ef­fort, with ex­cel­lent chips that crunch and fluff in all the right places.

A choco­late truf­fle ice cream ball (£4) and a top-notch espresso (£1.60) draws a very good lunch to a close. Back from Bolgona to Sal­ford, the place is fill­ing up - some lo­cals sip aper­i­tifs at the bar, oth­ers are on cof­fee, light lunch and lap­top du­ties. It’s a good mix and en­cour­ag­ing to see it be­ing backed by the peo­ple who live nearby.

Chapel Street is a bona fide food and drink des­ti­na­tion now, and it has an­other crack­ing neigh­bour­hood restau­rant worth seek­ing out. Si­mon Binns

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