NOT A ONE TRICK DRESS
Clare Waight Keller, famed for that wedding dress, seemed eager to throw off the mantle of being the Duchess of Sussex’s go-to wardrober for appropriate femininity. At Givenchy, models marched out at high speed, exuding energy and urgency, clutching their bags to their chests as if late for work. ‘It was about feminine strength. The idea of playing with a man’s wardrobe that folded into something sensual,’ she said backstage; it was two days after Hedi Slimane’s Celine. What of the female gaze – lean, sharp tailoring seen through her eyes? ‘Having options is my obsession, from graphic suits to easy jersey dresses. You just pull them over your head and go.’ For another take on empowered femininity, see Sarah Burton at Alexander Mcqueen, maker of the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress. How romantic and jawdroppingly beautiful were her women in soft leather rosepainted armour? Red carpets should be overrun with delicate Mcqueen gowns and boardrooms overpowered with scalpel- sharp black suits.