RO­MAN HOL­I­DAY

Harper's Bazaar (UK) - - Women - BY NANCY MIT­FORD

The two most telling phrases are

Dove (der­vey) which means ‘where is,’ and Non capisco (non capeescer) which means ‘I don’t un­der­stand one sin­gle word of what you are telling me, so shut up.’ This, when ut­tered in a sort of wail, evokes the great­est sym­pa­thy from any Ital­ian, who will there­after look upon you as a poor ami­able half-wit likely to part with an enor­mous tip if prop­erly han­dled.

…And now for a few words of more gen­eral ad­vice to the trav­eller. Do let me be­gin by im­plor­ing him, and more par­tic­u­larly still, her, to ad­vance upon this great cap­i­tal equipped with re­ally com­fort­able shoes. I my­self, through hav­ing ne­glected this ele­men­tary pre­cau­tion, suf­fered the tor­tures of the damned. I sprained my an­kle rather badly on the first day of my visit (in­ci­den­tally knock­ing down about four Ital­ians in the process) and was obliged there­after to drag it, shat­tered and aching, round the ma­jor basil­i­cas, up and down the Seven Hills, through the Fo­rum, over the Pala­tine, and across the ter­ri­ble un­even cob­ble­stones with which the streets and squares are laid. Oh, those cob­ble­stones!

From the ar­chives: Louis Vuit­ton, 1926–1927

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