MY MOODBOARD

An­thony Vac­carello at Saint Lau­rent

Harper's Bazaar (UK) - - Contents -

For all the patent mod­ernism seen at Saint Lau­rent, this is a la­bel that has its aes­thetic firmly rooted in its his­tory. ‘I love Mon­sieur Saint Lau­rent’s sub­ver­sive ap­proach to clothes; I wanted this col­lec­tion to be like a reread­ing, a rad­i­cal fantasy of this her­itage,’ says An­thony Vac­carello of his sec­ond cat­walk col­lec­tion for the mai­son. The mo­tifs of Saint Lau­rent are in­stantly recog­nis­able: a black pal­ette, se­vere tai­lor­ing and a Parisian rock ’n’ roll spirit, in a line de­signed to be worn at night. This feel­ing was ce­mented by the show’s fi­nale, which saw mod­els walk the run­way in a se­ries of fan­tas­ti­cal af­ter-dark looks, sump­tu­ous black vel­vetsandglit­ter­ingsil­ver­dresses,each­with­anac­cen­tu­ated sil­hou­ette. Vac­carello’s moodboard il­lus­trates the in­flu­ence of the Stu­dio 54 era, a time that would come to de­fine both the brand and Yves Saint Lau­rent him­self. ‘I couldn’t do a show without those golden years,’ says Vac­carello, ‘but I wanted to take it fur­ther.’ CHAR­LOTTE DAVEY

Above: An­thony Vac­carello’s Saint Lau­rent A/W 17 moodboard. Be­low: looks from the col­lec­tion

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