find your per­fect paving

Trans­form your gar­den with beau­ti­ful, long-last­ing paving from Mar­shalls

Homebuilding & Renovating - - Project Advice -

Choos­ing the right in­staller

To find the right per­son to in­stall your paving, it’s best to get sev­eral quotes and ask to see ex­am­ples of pre­vi­ous work to en­sure you have ab­so­lute con­fi­dence in the team you choose. Mar­shalls has a reg­is­ter of ac­cred­ited land­scape con­trac­tors and drive­way in­stall­ers, and vets mem­bers’ work twice a year to be cer­tain they of­fer the high­est stan­dards. With 99% of peo­ple who’ve used a Mar­shalls’ in­staller or prod­uct say­ing they’d rec­om­mend the com­pany to friends or fam­ily, you can be con­fi­dent in its com­mit­ment to great ser­vice. Visit mar­shalls.co.uk to­day to find a lo­cal in­staller to plan, de­sign and in­stall your per­fect paving.

sim­ple to paint di­rectly on to the old plaster­work, leav­ing a sur­face for your plas­terer to skim over. If you have old painted walls that you would like to have skimmed, you should first sand and clean them off. Coat­ing them with a weak PVA so­lu­tion, Blue Grit or This­tle Bond-it will help the new skim coat to ad­here nicely to the walls.

Plas­ter­ing to Brick­work

Al­though un­com­mon these days, it is some­times still nec­es­sary to plaster di­rectly onto old brick­work or blocks. This is more com­monly done on small ar­eas of wall where old plaster has come away and is done as a ‘patch­ing in’ job, rather than over an en­tire wall. It is vi­tal that the con­di­tion of these walls are as­sessed and rec­ti­fied where nec­es­sary — crum­bling old brick­work will not take a new coat of plaster. The sur­face of the old brick­work will need to be thor­oughly brushed down us­ing wire brushes or wire wool be­fore a layer of bond­ing or brown­ing, a ren­der-like sub­stance, is ap­plied to bring it up to the same thick­ness as the old plaster­work, be­fore skim­ming over the en­tire sur­face.

Plas­ter­board or Wet Plaster?

Be­fore plas­ter­board, plas­ter­ing was a more la­bo­ri­ous and ex­pen­sive task. Plas­ter­ing di­rectly to bare brick­work or blocks – known as ‘wet plas­ter­ing’ – is still favoured by some for its su­pe­rior sound­proof­ing. A ce­ment ren­der or gyp­sum back­ing (known as a scratch coat) is first trow­eled di­rectly onto block­work be­fore this is fin­ished off with a thin­ner skim coat. The down­sides of wet plas­ter­ing are that it takes much longer to dry than a skim coat on plas­ter­board, plus it can be prone to crack­ing. Plas­ter­board is now the most com­mon sur­face to plaster over. It is far sim­pler to plaster over than bare brick­work and as it only needs a skim coat it is gen­er­ally the cheapest op­tion, too. In ad­di­tion, fix­ing plas­ter­board to bare walls by screw­ing it to tim­ber bat­tens means a layer of in­su­la­tion can be added in if re­quired. Plas­ter­board can also be ‘dabbed’ to the wall. Sheets of plas­ter­board are stuck to the wall with dabs of ad­he­sive.

Fix­ing Plas­ter­board

An easy DIY job, cut­ting sheets of plas­ter­board to fit will save your plaster- er time — and you money. You could even fix the plas­ter­board to the wall your­self. The eas­i­est way to do this is to screw it di­rectly to tim­ber bat­tens on the wall and ceil­ings — use plas­ter­board screws and en­sure the screw heads are sunk be­low the sur­face of the boards. (Find out how to do this us­ing metal stud walling at: home­build­ing. co. uk/ how- to- plaster board-a-metal-stud-wall.) The joints be­tween the boards will need to be cov­ered with scrim, a mesh tape, be­fore the plas­terer skims.

DIY Jobs Sim­ple jobs such as clean­ing off old brick­work, cut­ting plas­ter­board to size and clear­ing the room will all cut the labour time of your plas­terer and there­fore cut down your fi­nal bill too.

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