“Ham­mer­ing along in a 30-year-old Land Rover is ac­tu­ally rather fun”

Land Rover Monthly - - Products -

way I do things is not the only way, or even the best way.

I’m al­ways open to new ideas, and so when I got a call ask­ing me to take a look at an ex-army Land Rover with a 200Tdi and a few is­sues to re­solve, I was in­trigued to see what I would find, and rather hoped there would be a few in­ge­nious so­lu­tions to the in­stal­la­tion that I could learn from (read steal).

No such luck. The fault list read: poor per­for­mance, smok­ing heav­ily, leak­ing oil. It didn’t take long to work out why. As I men­tioned ear­lier, one of the prob­lems with a 200Tdi con­ver­sion is the fly­wheel hous­ing.

The Dis­cov­ery and Defender ver­sions of the en­gine use the same ba­sic cast­ing, but the Dis­cov­ery has one of the bell­hous­ing studs in a dif­fer­ent place, the three bot­tom studs miss­ing, and four long bolts at the bot­tom, which sand­wich the fly­wheel hous­ing be­tween the bell­hous­ing and the cast alu­minium stiff­ener that sits be­tween the cylin­der block and the sump.

On the Defender ver­sion th­ese four bolts are re­placed with Allen bolts re­cessed into the fly­wheel hous­ing.

So, to con­vert a Dis­cov­ery fly­wheel hous­ing to Defender spec­i­fi­ca­tion you need to drill and tap four holes to take M10 threaded studs (help­fully the holes are al­ready partly drilled), coun­ter­bore four more holes to take Allen bolts, and pull out (or drill out if seized) the two lo­cat­ing dow­els that are unique to the Dis­cov­ery ver­sion of the hous­ing. Or you could do as the per­pe­tra­tor of this con­ver­sion had done, and use the fly­wheel hous­ing from an old 2.5 diesel.

Yes, it fits the 200Tdi: the at­tach­ment bolts, dow­els and crank­shaft seal are all the same. Yes, it will mate up to the LT77 gear­box with no mod­i­fi­ca­tions: that is the ap­pli­ca­tion it was de­signed for. But...

Firstly, you lose the four long bolts that go into the block stiff­ener. I tend to take the view that Land Rover usu­ally did things for a rea­son, and if they felt it nec­es­sary to bolt the fly­wheel hous­ing to the block stiff­ener I am not go­ing to ar­gue any dif­fer­ently.

I sus­pect that the bolts are there to stop the fly­wheel hous­ing from flex­ing slightly and pulling away from the block: I don’t know this for cer­tain, but I have seen sev­eral 200Tdi con­ver­sions with th­ese bolts miss­ing and oil drip­ping from the block to hous­ing joint.

Se­condly, on the 200Tdi en­gine the in­jec­tion pump is timed with the en­gine at top dead cen­tre (TDC), num­ber one cylin­der on the com­pres­sion stroke. Ac­cu­rate tim­ing is cru­cial on diesel en­gines – even a cou­ple of de­grees ei­ther way can make a huge dif­fer­ence to the run­ning.

The Tdi fly­wheel hous­ing has a threaded hole in the bot­tom: a tim­ing pin (or old R380 gear­box re­verse light switch) is screwed into this hole un­til it en­gages with a notch in the fly­wheel, at which point the en­gine is at TDC. The older 2.5 en­gines are timed in a dif­fer­ent

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