CON­NECT­ING THE SYS­TEMS

Land Rover Monthly - - Lrm Technical -

We also need to do some tidy­ing up on the en­gine. The ex­haust valve tap­pets were ad­justed while the cover was off to fit the new ex­haust man­i­fold, and the en­gine block drain tap was re­fit­ted, plus any other jobs where ac­cess was bet­ter with the front wings out of the way. Thank­fully, this work did go to plan. All that was needed was a me­thod­i­cal plod through each area in turn. We aimed to reach the point where we can re­fill the coolant and fit the pri­mary wiring har­ness so we can start the en­gine again. With that achieved, we’ll progress to wiring the lights.

1 The ex­haust valve cover goes back on, coolant hoses are changed, the feed pipe for the wa­ter pump is re­fit­ted, as is the fan and new fan belt. 2 The steer­ing box is fit­ted to the chas­sis and, in­ter­nally, the bulk­head to steer­ing tube brac­ings are fit­ted. We leave the steer­ing wheel off for now. 3 The steer­ing rods get new ball joints be­fore fit­ting to the ve­hi­cle. One rod from the box to the idler, and the drag link from the idler to the near­side swivel.

4 With the steer­ing wheel dropped on, I can’t help but smile as I feel the new steer­ing for the first time. Beau­ti­fully smooth in ac­tion and with no play.

5 The non-func­tion­ing dy­namo was sent to a lo­cal auto elec­tri­cal spe­cial­ist where it was fit­ted with new bear­ings, brushes and given a smart re­paint. 6 The ra­di­a­tor and bon­net stay are bolted onto the front panel, then the whole assem­bly is bolted into the ve­hi­cle be­fore fit­ting the ra­di­a­tor cowl. 7 With the cowl rest­ing over the fan, the front panel and ra­di­a­tor is fit­ted to the chas­sis, and the cowl is slid in. Now it’s re­ally tak­ing shape. 8 The fuel pump and elec­tric assem­bly bolts to the bulk­head. Pe­riod-look­ing braided hoses con­nect the fuel sys­tem, and the fuel fil­ter goes back on. 9 The new wiring loom from Au­tosparks looks superb. Af­ter a few hours la­belling the pri­mary har­ness up, I first rest it in po­si­tion on the car. 10 I start con­nect­ing ev­ery­thing in turn, start­ing at the fuel pump, then volt­age reg­u­la­tor, fuse­box, starter but­ton, choke and oil pres­sure switch. 11 In­side the car, I con­nect the ig­ni­tion and light­ing feeds, then the gauges and warn­ing lamps. The wiring di­a­gram is vi­tal, as is pa­tience. 12 James fixes the con­nec­tions on newly made cop­per heater pipes. He uses sil­ver sol­der, the way the fac­tory made them in 1957.

13 The pedal arms go back on, the shafts are greased, then the ped­als bolted to the arms af­ter fit­ting new bulk­head rub­ber seals and felts. 14 The brake sys­tem is filled with fluid. We’ll bleed the brakes from the back to the front, maybe two or three times to get a firm pedal. 15 Af­ter dou­ble-check­ing the power to the ig­ni­tion feed and fuel pump with a mul­ti­me­ter, I turn the key. The ig­ni­tion lights il­lu­mi­nate, the fuel pump ticks. Fan­tas­tic! 16 Just wa­ter goes in the ra­di­a­tor un­til we’ve con­firmed the sys­tem is now wa­ter­tight – there’s no point wast­ing coolant con­cen­trate at this stage. 17 We’re ready to turn the key and start it. But James no­tices a pud­dle un­der the car. A core plug is weep­ing at the back of the block. 18 The core plug leak is mi­nor and will be sorted later, so James turns the key, presses the starter and it fires in­stantly. A test of the brakes, a lift of the clutch, and we’re driv­ing!

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