ONE grape that has become very fashionable for a number of reasons is Pinot Gris, or as the Italians call it Pinot Grigio.
It’s a variety to which I am increasingly drawn as the best examples from its French stronghold in Alsace are matched by those coming from the New World – in particular New Zealand.
The problem for Pinot Gris is that it’s become a victim of its own success in Italy whose Pinot Grigios are in very high demand.
That demand has led to higher yields which reduce the grape’s true characteristics.
Despite its propensity to be super dry, it’s actually a rich and powerful white, usually with perfumed aromas and a palate that has