FOR a wine nerd like me, the district of Saint Émilion in Bordeaux is one of the most interesting, not least because of its restless, ever-changing nature.
This also makes it one of those problematic appellations which can be very confusing for the wine buyer.
It can be even more bewildering than many of France’s other classifications such as Burgundy where the names of wines have developed over the years into a complex mixture of commune and villages titles.
Saint Émilion, uniquely, is a classification based on a number of properties which is revised every eight to 10 years through tastings.
What is perhaps most misleading about Saint Émilion is that hundreds