FOOD

Macclesfield Express - - LEISURE - AN­DREW NUTTER CELERIAC RE­MOULADE

YOU’VE bar­be­cued your sausages and burg­ers, po­tato salad at the ready but what else do you serve with it?

To make it a proper meal Re­moulade is the an­swer.

A fan­tas­tic ac­com­pa­ni­ment to any bar­be­cue meal, it’s del­i­cate but with a sub­tle lemon and mus­tard kick. Makes one bowl; enough for 6 peo­ple In­gre­di­ents:

225g celeriac-trimmed and grated

One car­rot - peeled and grated

One red onion - finely sliced

One ta­ble­spoon sherry vine­gar

One tea­spoon caster sugar

One ta­ble­spoon di­jon mus­tard

Three ta­ble­spoons may­on­naise Lemon juice to taste Fresh co­rian­der and chives Method: enough quan­ti­ties to be de­tected on the nose or in the mouth.

Yet both wine­mak­ers and wine drinkers will con­fi­dently assert that the soil in which wines grow can pro­duce a flinty ef­fect or a taste that might be like pop­ping a small peb­ble in your mouth.

Very of­ten this im­pres­sion is from vine­yards where lime­stone or marl puts the vines un­der stress and pro­duces leaner wines, as op­posed to richer soils that pro­duce more lus­cious wines.

At the fam­ily-owned Do­maine Dir­ler-Cade in the vil­lage of Bergholtz in Al­sace, the ‘re­tired’ elder states­man of the fam­ily, Jean Pierre, showed us a map in­di­cat­ing the vine­yards owned by the fam­ily and then pro­duced a rock taken from each of the sites.

The grand cru vine­yards of Saer­ing are made up of marl, lime­stone and sand­stone so that even the Saer­ing Mus­cat 2015, nor­mally a very aro­matic va­ri­ety, is more re­strained with a flo­ral fra­grance and charm­ing and sup­ple fruit cut with zippy acid­ity. Cave de Be­blenheim Kle­in­fels Al­sace Ries­ling 2015 (£10.49 Wait­rose) Most ‘min­eral’ wines come at a price but this bot­tle with its peachy nose and juicy ap­ple core fruit gives you an idea at an en­try level cost. Pe­tit Ch­ablis Pas Si Pe­tit La Ch­ablisi­enne 2015 (£12.10 Bon Coeur Fine Wine)

Ch­ablis’ rep­u­ta­tion is founded on its ‘cal­caire’ soils – lime­stone, made up of fos­silised sea crea­tures and shells.

Pe­tit Ch­ablis is an even leaner, sharper ver­sion of Ch­ablis which is per­fect well-chilled on a sum­mer’s day Ch­ablis, 2014, Sim­monet Febvre 2014 (£15.40 Bon Coeur Fine Wines)

A more gen­er­ous, vi­brant Ch­ablis with a straw and ap­ple nose, lemon and ap­ple fruit cut by steely acid­ity and, yes you guessed it, ‘min­er­al­ity’. Jos­meyer Le Dragon Ries­ling 2014 (£33 buon­vino.co.uk)

A high­light of al­most 50 dry Ries­lings tasted in the Al­sace. This has soft mint and sweet­corn aro­mas but the palate is a brac­ing slash of lime acid­ity with a great im­pres­sion of lime­stone min­er­al­ity. Kient­zler Ries­ling Grand Cru Oster­berg 2016 (€23 www.vin­skient­zler.com)

Avail­able through the Al­sace es­tate’s own web­site, this was one of sev­eral wines I tasted which were taken from the grand cru vine­yards owned by Kient­zler.

The soil of each par­cel dif­fers in its contents and this par­tic­u­lar area has more lime­stone and pro­duces a wine which is both aro­matic and flo­ral on the nose.

The palate is noth­ing other than what might be de­scribed as ‘min­eral’ with a sharply de­lin­eated struc­ture and crisp pure acid­ity. The fin­ish is very per­sis­tent and long.

‘The palate is noth­ing other than what might be de­scribed as ‘min­eral’ with a sharply de­lin­eated struc­ture’

Celeriac re­moulade is the per­fect ac­com­pa­ni­ment to bar­be­cue dishes such as burg­ers, left

Cave de Be­blenheim Kle­in­fels Ries­ling 2015

Nut­ters Restau­rant, Eden­field Road, Rochdale. Tel: 01706 650167 @Nutsfood on Twit­ter

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