Why Sweden’s forests are one of Earth’s best riding destinations
The land of untouched beauty and endless accessible trails that’s just one short flight away
Dense walls of pine and spruce blur past on both sides. Masses of heather and bracken spill out from the edges of the track. The air tastes dense, fresh, crisp and invigorating. If the idea of switching off from the hustle and bustle of the modern world and getting back to nature sounds good, Sweden is the perfect retreat. Off-roading through lush, fragrant Scandinavian forests might sound far-flung, exotic and alien, but anyone can do it. This morning I was asleep in my own bed back in Lincolnshire. A twohour flight later I was in Gothenburg. After lunch, I climbed on a Yamaha XT660R hire bike. Now I’m having the time of my life just trying to keep it pointing between the trees somewhere in southern Sweden.
It’s not just getting here that’s easy – the riding isn’t difficult either. These are not treacherous, fiendish, enduroexpert Dakar stages, but easy, unsealed, gravel trails through spectacular scenery. Tour guide Mats Jonsson, owner of Magic Motor Experience, has designed trips to welcome regular road riders just like you and me. You don’t need a lifetime of dirt skills, don’t need to speak a word of Swedish or have any idea where you’re going. Mats sorts the lot – bikes, petrol, insurance, routes, schedule, hotels, meals, support car with luggage – and leads the way. It couldn’t be simpler. Just bring your kit and jump straight into exploring Sweden. And there’s a lot of it to explore. Sweden is twice the size of Britain but has just one sixth of our population – and the emptiness makes it feel even larger still. Most of the time you’re the only vehicles around as far as the eye can see or the ear can hear. Instead of houses and humans, the space is taken up with trees and lakes, along with an intricate network of trails that are just ripe for riding.
Most of those chosen by Mats snake gently through open farmland and colossal forests. The surface varies — there’s sandy soil, hard-packed dirt, chunky gravel, a few grassy sections — and the
‘I’m having the time of my life between the trees’
coffee, pastries, cookies, cakes and conversation. Mats was born on the farm he runs his business from, and he’s keen to share his knowledge of the area – its history, economy, geography and even geology. Why all the houses here are painted red. What a “moose tower” is. There are local tourist attractions, including an obligatory pilgrimage to the Ikea museum in Älmhult where the original store opened. But Mats also unlocks the area’s hidden secrets. A haunting scrapyard of 150 cars left to rot deep in the woods for decades. Disused military storage depots. A two-mile runway in the middle of nowhere. An empty enduro track where we can bounce the bikes around.
I arrived in Sweden knowing nothing more than clichés about ABBA and meatballs. Four days later I’ve seen just a tiny corner, but I’m hungry for more. With its sprawling landscapes, verdant woodlands, twinkling lakes and minimal population it’s like Scotland turned up to 11. But unlike Scotland, Sweden offers an unmissable opportunity to ride through its forests. It’s relaxing, exhilarating, peaceful, beautiful and inspiring. Most of all, it’s utterly unforgettable.