Project 2

Cor­rect­ing Ox­ford’s ends

Model Rail (UK) - - Workbench -

Ox­ford’s two 2018 ‘Toads’ are, gen­er­ally, very good mod­els but there are a cou­ple of prob­lem ar­eas. Hap­pily, it doesn’t take much work to cor­rect them. Firstly, all Ox­ford’s ver­sions of the ‘Toad’ have a win­dow in the van end which was not there in ser­vice. Also, all Ox­ford’s ‘plated’ ex­am­ples have the lower part of the sides plated, but the ends planked. On the so-called ‘plated’ ex­am­ples the lower sides and ends were made of steel. An af­ter­noon’s work is all that is needed to make the changes, and you’ll have a neat 16-ton­ner to add a bit of va­ri­ety to your fleet.

The van end of the ‘Toad’ had a planked wooden hatch which could be opened to reach the mid­dle lamp bracket. The win­dow frame needs to go, so snip out the hor­i­zon­tal glaz­ing bar. 2

You will now need to re­move the three sides of the up­per win­dow frame by fil­ing them back un­til you have a plain rec­tan­gu­lar open­ing. Be care­ful not to be too vig­or­ous with the fil­ing or you’ll re­move more than is needed. 3

The same blade can then be used to shave back the sur­plus filler un­til the plank faces are clean and only the re­cesses filled. Be super-crit­i­cal and re­peat the fill­ing and shav­ing process where nec­es­sary. 5

The ends can then be painted with Rail­match BR freight stock early light grey, which is a pretty good match to Ox­ford’s BR grey. Freight stock was of­ten patch-painted and a lit­tle weathering will hide any dis­crep­ancy. 6

I filled the end win­dow open­ing with a small piece cut from a Park­side ‘Mink’ van side, but Ever­green planked sid­ing styrene sheet could be used. Al­ter­na­tively, a small piece of scribed plas­tic sheet will do the job. 7

I used Deluxe Ma­te­ri­als Per­fect Plas­tic Putty to fill the plank­ing de­tail on both ends. It is easy to spread it with a craft knife blade and does not need to be smooth. Leave it to dry for a cou­ple of hours. 4

Dis­man­tle the van by pulling out the buf­fers. Grip the buf­fer shank in pli­ers and pull gen­tly. I found that two of mine would not budge, but so long as you can re­lease one end the body will come off. Then pop out the glaz­ing. 1

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