Mollie Makes - - Loving -


Match­ing sewing thread Tailor’s chalk

For the bag

Main fab­ric, 50cm (19 ") Con­trast­ing fab­ric for lin­ing and straps, 1m (393/ ") 8 Zip, 45cm (17 ")

For the case

Main fab­ric, 50cm (19 ") Lin­ing fab­ric, 50cm (19 ") Bias bind­ing, 2m (79") Thin wadding, 1m (393/ ") 8 Two snap fas­ten­ers Snap fas­tener tool

For the pin­cush­ion

Scraps of pat­terned fab­ric Soft toy stuff­ing

If your fab­ric col­lec­tion is any­thing like ours – we’re talk­ing fat quar­ters spilling from draw­ers and stuffed into bas­kets – you’ll be keep­ing an eye out for makes like this craft set to put it to good use.

Th­ese makes aren’t just lovely to look at; they’re prac­ti­cal too, and de­signed to help keep your knit­ting nee­dles, cro­chet hooks and pins neat and tidy. That way, you can put them all in one place, then fill the ex­tra room in your craft cor­ner with even more new fab­ric.

Knit­ting nee­dle bag

01 Mark out two 45 x 17.5cm (17¾ x 67/ 8") rec­tan­gles on the main fab­ric. Add a 1.5cm ( 5 /8") seam al­lowance and cut out, then re­peat with the lin­ing and wadding. Th­ese will be the sides of the bag.

02 Cut two 70 x 10cm (275/ 8 x 4") pieces of con­trast­ing fab­ric for the han­dles. Fold both long edges into the cen­tre, with wrong sides ( WS) to­gether, on each piece. Fold both in half along the length, then sew both long edges on each han­dle.

03 Place one bag side on a piece of wadding, right side (RS) up and align­ing the edges. Mark on two lines from top to bot­tom, 12.5cm (5") in from ei­ther short edge. Pin one of the fab­ric han­dles to the bag side, us­ing the marks for place­ment, and align­ing the han­dle ends with the bot­tom edge of the bag side. Re­peat with the re­main­ing bag side, wadding and han­dle.

04 At­tach the han­dles to the bag sides by sewing along each long edge, over the orig­i­nal line of stitch­ing. Stop 3cm (1¼") from the top of the bag side, and back­stitch over the seam slightly to se­cure the thread. Re­peat with the sec­ond bag side and re­main­ing han­dle.

05 Place one bag side RS up and fold back the han­dle. Po­si­tion the zip along the top edge with RS to­gether, then place a piece of lin­ing fab­ric on top, align­ing all edges. Pin, then use the zip­per foot to sew along the top edge, close to the zip teeth. Fold back the lin­ing fab­ric, re­peat with the sec­ond bag side, then open the zip.

06 Po­si­tion the two lin­ing pieces with RS to­gether, and the two bag sides with RS to­gether, then lay the fab­rics flat. Pin, then sew around

the out­side, 1.5cm ( 5 /8") in from the edge, and leav­ing a 5cm (2") gap.

07 Square off each cor­ner of the bag by flat­ten­ing it out, align­ing the side seam with the bot­tom seam. Sew across the cor­ner at a right an­gle, 2cm (¾") in from the point, then trim the ex­cess fab­ric.

08 Turn the bag RS out, sew the gap closed, then tuck the lin­ing in­side the bag through the zip.

Cro­chet hook case

09 Cut a 20 x 30cm (77/ 8 x 117/ 8") rec­tan­gle from the main fab­ric, then re­peat with the lin­ing fab­ric and wadding. Cut three more rec­tan­gles from the lin­ing fab­ric, two mea­sur­ing 6 x 24cm (23/ x 9½") 8 with a 1.5cm ( 5 /8") seam al­lowance, and one mea­sur­ing 16 x 26.5cm (63/ 8 x 10½") with no seam al­lowance.

10 Place the two 6 x 24cm (23/ x 8 9½") rec­tan­gles with RS to­gether and pin along both short edges and one long edge. Sew us­ing a 1.5cm ( 5 /8") seam al­lowance, then trim the seams, turn RS out, and press. Pin bias bind­ing along the three closed edges, then sew. This will make the flap sec­tion.

11 Take the 16 x 26.5cm (63/ 8 x 10½") rec­tan­gle and fold the right-hand short edge to the WS by 1.5cm ( 5 /8"). Press in place. Fold the fab­ric in half along the length with WS to­gether and press again. Pin bias bind­ing along the folded top edge and right-hand short edge and sew. This will make the pocket sec­tion.

12 Lay the re­main­ing main fab­ric piece RS down and place the wadding on top, then the lin­ing fab­ric RS up. Mea­sure and mark 2cm (¾") in from both edges at the cor­ners on the right-hand side – this is where the fas­ten­ers will go. Add the pos­i­tive sides of the fas­ten­ers, mak­ing sure the caps are po­si­tioned on the main fab­ric piece.

13 Fold the left side of the case to the WS, a third of the way along the length. Mea­sure and mark 2cm (¾") in from both edges at the folded cor­ners on the left-hand side, then add the other half of the fas­ten­ers at the marked points.

14 Open the case with the lin­ing fac­ing RS up. Po­si­tion the pocket in the bot­tom left cor­ner, align­ing the raw edges, and pin. Mark 5cm (2") in­ter­vals along the bot­tom of the pocket, then sew ver­ti­cally up from th­ese marks to form five pock­ets, also sewing the right-hand side of the pocket in place.

15 Po­si­tion the flap in the top left cor­ner, align­ing the long raw edges, and 1cm ( 3 / ") in from the 8 short edge. Pin in place.

16 Pin bias bind­ing around all four edges of the case, fin­ish­ing it neatly in the top left cor­ner. Use zigzag stitch to sew around the in­side edge of the bind­ing, join­ing all the lay­ers to­gether. Fold the case into three and close with the fas­ten­ers.


17 Cut a 9cm (35/ 8") square from two pieces of left­over fab­ric. Pin with RS to­gether, then sew along three sides, us­ing a 1.5cm ( 5 /8") seam al­lowance. Trim the seam al­lowance, then turn RS out.

18 Fold the fab­ric on the open edge to the WS by 2cm (¾") and press. Bring the seams at ei­ther side of the open­ing to­gether, turn­ing the flat square into a pyra­mid shape, and pin. Slip stitch closed, stop­ping half way to stuff the pyra­mid firmly, be­fore com­pletely clos­ing.

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