Mollie Makes - - Mollie Makes -


Hooked Zpagetti, 95% cot­ton, 5% syn­thetic, 49m/54yd per 380g, one cone each in Coral Wa­ter­melon (Yarn A) and Su­perb Yel­low (Yarn B) Paint­box Yarns Wool Mix Su­per Chunky, 50% wool, 50% acrylic, 55m/60yd per 100g, one ball in Peach Or­ange (954) (Yarn C) Katia Peru, 40% wool, 40% acrylic, 20% al­paca, 106m/116yd per 100g, one ball in 34 (Yarn D) Tapestry nee­dle Rat­tan chair So you’ve bagged the holy grail of thrifted finds – a vin­tage rat­tan chair – but it’s look­ing a bit worse for wear. Chunky yarn to the res­cue. Stash dive for a hand­ful of rich hues, then spend an evening wrap­ping, knot­ting and weav­ing to cre­ate an re­fash­ioned throne fit for your home oa­sis.

Tweak the look to suit your chair’s curves and cover any tatty bits, and if you find it tricky to se­cure the yarn in place with knots, try a sta­ple or glue gun in­stead.

01 Take a length of Yarn A, ap­prox­i­mately 60cm (235/ "), and 8 tie it around the back of the chair with a sim­ple se­cur­ing knot. Next, wrap the yarn evenly around the struc­ture, pulling tightly as you go. You’ll need both hands to keep the yarn in place as you wrap.

02 Once the sec­tion is wrapped, tie the loose end to the back of the frame, then tuck it back up in­side to hide it and give a neat fin­ish.

03 Us­ing new lengths of Yarn A, re­peat this process for the rest of the back of the chair.

04 Cut a 2m (78¾") length of Yarn B, then use a plain weave stitch to thread in front of and be­hind the ver­ti­cal back struc­ture. The rat­tan is act­ing as the warp and the yarn as the weft. En­sure you al­ter­nate the weave with the row below, re­peat­ing un­til the pat­tern reaches about 3cm (1¼") in depth.

05 Re­peat Step 4 us­ing a 2m (78¾") length of Yarn C. Weave fur­ther lay­ers of the two colours to cre­ate a 10cm (4") sec­tion of wo­ven tex­ture. Once fin­ished, tuck the loose ends into the back of the weav­ing to cre­ate a neat fin­ish.

06 Tie a 3m (1181/ 8 ") length of Yarn C to the bot­tom of the ver­ti­cal frame struc­ture. Work­ing up­wards, wind the yarn around the frame tightly, en­sur­ing the cov­er­age is even. Once cov­ered, tie the loose ends and tuck back into the frame.

07 For the rya knots, cut Yarn D into three 20cm (8") lengths, fold in half and wrap around the frame.

08 Pull the loose ends tightly through the loop cre­ated and trim to leave 5cm (2") lengths. Re­peat this process at reg­u­lar in­ter­vals along the front of the frame.

09 Next, wrap the arms of the chair. Start­ing at the bot­tom of one arm, tie on a 40cm (15¾") length of Yarn A and wrap it up­wards for 10cm (4"). Us­ing a tapestry nee­dle, thread the end back into the wrapped yarn for a tidy fin­ish. Re­peat on the other arm.

10 Take the tapestry nee­dle and thread on a 30cm (117/ ") length of 8 Yarn B. Weave this in front of and be­hind Yarn A to cre­ate a wo­ven ef­fect. Thread the loose ends back un­der the yarn to fin­ish, then re­peat on the other arm.

11 The soumak stitch sits on top of the wo­ven sec­tion cre­ated in Steps 4-5, and is great for adding tex­ture. Work­ing on the back of the chair, start by pulling Yarn B un­der two warp pieces, back over these two, then un­der the fol­low­ing three warp pieces and back onto the past two pieces. Re­peat this process. When go­ing back in the op­po­site di­rec­tion, re­peat the same process to cre­ate a braided ef­fect.

12 Cre­ate six chunky tas­sels us­ing Yarn D, then fas­ten them onto the back of the frame, us­ing the main im­age as a guide to place­ment.

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