ANY QUES­TION AN­SWERED OWN­ING & RID­ING Q How can I free off a seized fair­ing fas­tener?

If we don’t know the an­swer, we’ll find the per­son who does Which do-it-all jacket will keep me comfy in all con­di­tions? Is FJR1300 warn­ing light a storm in a teacup? Q

Motorcycle News (UK) - - Garage -

I was about to give my Honda CBR600RR a good clean when one of the bolts on the V-piece un­der the ra­di­a­tor just kept turn­ing. So I thought I’d take the left-hand fair­ing off and care­fully re­move the V-piece. Then I found an­other bolt seized in its grom­met in the fair­ing. How can I get them out? Tom Af­fleck, Liver­pool


I’m look­ing for an all-sea­son jacket with a re­mov­able ther­mal liner for un­der £300. I don’t re­ally like wa­ter­proof lin­ings; I’d pre­fer to slip on a wa­ter­proof over­suit and keep the rain out. Nick Paul­ley, MCN fo­rums

An­swered by Keith Rois­set­ter, Infinity Mo­tor­cy­cles There are a num­ber of three­layer jack­ets which tick your boxes. They have a ther­mal An­swered by Scott Bul­lett, Doble Mo­tor­cy­cles These grom­mets have got a threaded brass top hat in­sert, which gets cor­roded and seizes − but there are sev­eral ways you can go about re­mov­ing them. Give it a good soak with pen­e­trat­ing oil first, and if you can get around the back of the grom­met you may be liner clos­est to your body with a wa­ter­proof liner zipped in place be­tween that and the outer shell. The wa­ter­proof liner also works as a wind­proof layer, so it will give you some warmth and it’s breath­able - wa­ter­proof over­suits are not. Your best bet is the RST Ad­ven­ture II. The ther­mal and wa­ter­proof lay­ers are in­ter­change­able so you can choose which layer (or both) you want to have. able to grip the top hat with pli­ers or small mole­grips and gen­tly force the fas­tener to move, but be­ware round­ing it off. Here in the work­shop we’ve got a rat­tle gun which spins a lot faster and is more suc­cess­ful at ‘shock­ing’ and free­ing the thread off.

If it still won’t budge and you can see enough of the rub­ber por­tion you can slash and break that up with a very sharp craft knife un­til you can re­move the rub­ber, which will al­low the brass in­sert to pass through the larger hole. When­ever we have a bike in for a ser­vice we al­ways use a dab of co­paslip on all the fas­ten­ers and it’s the first bit of pre­ven­ta­tive main­te­nance I do when I buy a used bike. I braved Storm Katie over Easter on my Yamaha FJR1300 and was re­warded with a yel­low en­gine warn­ing light. At first it flick­ered, but by the last day of my mini-tour it was on con­tin­u­ously, along with a ‘31’ fault code. I was able to get home and once it had dried out for a few days the fault code and light have both gone away. Where do I start try­ing to trace it? Les­lie Peters, Earlswood

An­swered by Ernie Lodge, FJR Cen­tre When a warn­ing light is in­ter­mit­tent it’s gen­er­ally a ‘glitch in the ma­trix’ caused by mois­ture. The FJR elec­tron­ics run on low volt­ages and it doesn’t take much damp­ness to make it bor­der­line. Now it’s dried out I’d pull apart the main con­nec­tors and clean out any cor­ro­sion. If the ‘31’ code was real it would in­di­cate a lean air/fuel ra­tio, which could be caused by a faulty fuel pump giv­ing low fuel pres­sure, clogged in­jec­tors, a de­fec­tive oxy­gen sen­sor, a short cir­cuit in the loom or a mal­func­tion­ing ECU. So fo­cus on the con­nec­tors in those cir­cuits, then give the whole bike a good coat­ing of cor­ro­sion in­hibitor on a low-hu­mid­ity day to give it the best chance.

My son bought a Kawasaki ZR-7 last week but only car­ried out an MCN Bike Check af­ter we had col­lected it. The check re­vealed the bike was made a Cat­e­gory B write-off in 2010. I thought Cat A and Bs had to be taken off the road, so I’m wor­ried it could be dan­ger­ous. Trevor Jones, Gold­ers Green

An­swered by Chris Dabbs, MCN There is no le­gal im­ped­i­ment to a Cat­e­gory B write-off be­ing put back on the road, as there is only a code of con­duct be­tween in­sur­ers, the police and Gov­ern­ment de­part­ments, not leg­is­la­tion. If it has passed Mots since 2010 and you are happy with the way the bike han­dles then you shouldn’t have a prob­lem. You may find it harder to sell on, as­sum­ing your buyer per­forms a bike check be­fore buy­ing. You have no le­gal re­course against the buyer, un­less you di­rectly asked them if the bike had been writ­ten off.

A bit of co­paslip on the CBR’S grom­mets will make for easy fu­ture fair­ing re­movals RST Ad­ven­ture II from £249.99 Dainese Sand­storm from £379.99 Glitchy fault code and warn­ing light could just be damp in FJR’S electrics Alpines­tars Bo­gota from £209.99 S

The F800ST’S mild steel box-sec­tion frame can suf­fer ex­cess heat trans­fer Wear a wet T-shirt un­der your kit to help stay cool in the desert Dun­lop put over 746,000 test­ing miles into the new Road­s­mart III

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