The di­rect line to bet­ter brak­ing Ban­ish your bulging rub­ber brake hoses and fit braided steel items for im­proved bite and power

Motorcycle News (UK) - - Garage -

1Make an of­fer­ing

Be­fore pick­ing up the tools, get your new hoses out and of­fer them up to en­sure they’re long enough for the rout­ing you’ve cho­sen. There should be a bit of slack, es­pe­cially if your forks com­press a lit­tle on the stand. Make sure the banjo end type matches those of the orig­i­nal hoses. When you’re happy, con­nect a tube to the bleed nip­ple and pump out as much old fluid as you can.

2Drain and con­tain

Have rags or work­shop tis­sue ready to hand, and re­move the lower end of the hoses, and let any re­main­ing fluid drain in to a waste fluid re­cep­ta­cle. Make sure you catch any drib­bles from the caliper fit­ting too. Cut the fin­gers off a dis­pos­able rub­ber glove, and cable-tie them on the banjo fit­tings to catch any fur­ther drips. Then re­move the top fit­ting, and care­fully re­move the hoses.

4Get cop­per washers cor­rect

On twin-disc front ends, loosely fit the right hose at the caliper end (it’ll be slightly shorter). Then the left. Now bolt the hoses on at the top – if you have them the right way, the two ban­jos will be an­gled dif­fer­ently so they don’t bind up. There should be a cop­per washer be­tween the bolt head/one hose, be­tween both banjo ends, and be­tween the other banjo and mas­ter cylin­der.

6Tighten and dou­ble check

Time to break out the torque wrench. Tighten each fit­ting to the bike man­u­fac­turer’s spec­i­fi­ca­tion. Make sure any clips you’ve re­moved or fit­ted are tight too. Check the rout­ing is OK one last time. Now you’re ready to re­fill the fluid. Clean the bleed nip­ples, re­move and clean the mas­ter cylin­der lid, and open a new bot­tle of brake fluid.

8Ban­ish those bub­bles

Once fluid is flow­ing on the left side, close the bleed nip­ple and switch to the right side. Get fluid to the caliper here, then switch back to the left. Push fluid through un­til the fluid coming out is free of bub­bles. Lock the bleed nip­ple, wipe up drips and fit a cover on the bleed nip­ple. Re­peat on the other side, half-fill the reser­voir and fit the lid.

5The route to suc­cess

Be­fore go­ing fur­ther, en­sure the rout­ing is OK. The hoses should not be crushed, kinked or stretched. Raise the front of the bike off the floor and make sure they’re not pulled taut at full fork ex­ten­sion. Fit cable clamps and guides any­where they were used orig­i­nally. The aim is to pre­vent the hoses get­ting close to any point where one could get pinched/rubbed.

7Squeezy does it...

Hold the brake lever in, and top the reser­voir up. Re­lease the lever. At­tach your cho­sen bleed­ing de­vice to the left­side banjo. Loosen the bleed nip­ple. You may find it takes a while for the sys­tem to start tak­ing on fluid – try squeez­ing the lever slowly, then re­leas­ing it as fast as pos­si­ble. If it’s re­ally go­ing slow, a plas­tic sy­ringe on a tube to the lower banjo bolt can kick­start the process.

9Pump, preen and pull up

Now pump the brake lever to en­sure the pads are in proper con­tact, and squeeze it for a few sec­onds to make sure there is no pres­sure loss or leaks. Thor­oughly wipe down any ar­eas where fluid residue may be left – brake fluid is read­ily ab­sorbed in wa­ter, so it’s a good time to wash the whole bike, then go for a ride and en­joy crisper, more sen­si­tive and bet­ter brak­ing.

Tri­umph Street Triple Colours White, black, green Dealer £3700 Pri­vate good £3300 Pri­vate av­er­age£ 3000 This one 2008 model with Ar­row ex­haust and bel­ly­pan. 9800 miles, £3500 Now Tony needs to con­vince the owner to sell

From Ban­bury A422 /A43/A422

– Buck­ing­ham

Swap­ping stan­dard rub­ber hoses for af­ter­mar­ket steel items will dra­mat­i­cally boost your stopping power

Style is sub­jec­tive, but you can’t ar­gue with the Deauville’s abil­ity

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