WHEEL RE­MOVAL…

…and fit­ting made easy

Motorcycle News (UK) - - Garage -

1 Be up­stand­ing

If you have a cen­tre­stand, you’re on easy street, and you just need to se­curely lift the front. A pad­dock stand is best – the type that sup­ports from the steer­ing stem gives bet­ter ac­cess to the wheel spin­dle and fas­ten­ers. If you use the fork bot­tom lift-type, make sure it se­curely lo­cates on your fork low­ers. Rear stands should hold the bike rock­solid too – prong stands lift­ing bob­bins on the swingarm are best.

2 Knock offs

Be­fore lift­ing the bike, it’s wise to ease off tight bolts. You only need to get fas­ten­ers mov­ing – a quar­ter turn is enough. Look for any­thing that you’ll need to undo to re­move wheels: typ­i­cally fork pinch bolts, front wheel spin­dles, rear axle nuts, brake torque arms and caliper bolts may all be seized or tight. Un­do­ing them now is safer and eas­ier. You can then put the bike on stands ready to lift.

3 Brakes out of the way

Re­move the calipers. Fronts are easy: un­bolt and ease the calipers from the discs. Calipers are OK to hang from hoses, so long as they’re not kinked, twisted or un­duly strained. Ca­ble-tie an old rag around the caliper body to pre­vent it dam­ag­ing paint. Un­bolt the rear caliper from its hanger, and from the torque arm (if ap­pli­ca­ble). If your bike has a front-wheel driven speedo ca­ble, un­screw the ca­ble too.

Chock it up 4

Find a piece of wood that just fits un­der the wheels when the bike is raised. Now re­move the spin­dles slowly – wheel spac­ers and chain ad­juster blocks can fall out, and you’ll need to know where they all come from. Clean all the parts and store in or­der. If your rear chock is long enough, roll the wheel for­ward an inch or two and un­hook the chain.

Front it up 6

Make sure you have the wheel the right way round. Fit any spacer and speedo drives, and roll the wheel into place. Speedo drives have lo­cat­ing tabs on the fork. Slide the clean, lightly greased spin­dle in. If it threads into the op­pos­ing fork leg, gen­tly wind it in by hand to make sure it’s not cross-threaded. If there’s a nut on the other end, nip that up too.

Torque time 8

With ev­ery­thing fit­ted, it’s time to torque ev­ery­thing up. You can let the bike down from pad­dock stands if ev­ery­thing is nipped up lightly. Work­shop man­u­als con­tain torque set­tings for all th­ese fas­ten­ers. Be sure you set your tool in the same unit as the man­ual states. Fork pinch bolts should be grad­u­ally tight­ened evenly to their torque value.

Re­assem­bly is fid­dlier… 5

Fit the spac­ers to the rear wheel, and roll it in to place on your chock, hold­ing the caliper hanger in place too. Hook the chain over the sprocket, then roll it in­line with the ad­juster blocks. Slide the freshly greased spin­dle in slowly. Make sure all your spac­ers stay in place. Once it’s in, fit the op­po­site chain ad­juster block (if ap­pli­ca­ble), fit and lightly tighten the spin­dle nut.

Putting the brakes on 7

Slide the caliper over the disc, en­sur­ing pads stay ei­ther side of the ro­tor. If you’ve brushed a lever or you’re strug­gling to get the pads over the disc, use a plas­tic im­ple­ment (plas­tic scrap­ers are ideal) to gen­tly push the pads and pis­tons back. Lightly tighten the caliper bolts – if you’ve re­moved any hose clips or guides, re­fit those. At the rear, reat­tach the brake torque arm.

Fi­nal checks 9

Check the wheel align­ment and chain ten­sion is as it should be. Dou­ble check ev­ery fas­tener is torqued, and re­place any split-pins you’ve re­moved. They cost pence, and new ones look nicer as well as en­sur­ing they won’t fail. Fi­nally, check the brakes – pump the levers to en­sure they have cor­rect pres­sure, and roll the bike to feel for any drag­ging.

De­cent stands, qual­ity tools and a metic­u­lous ap­proach will see you right

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