Look again at Kawasaki’s GPZ
Bag an air-cooled Kwacker now while they’re going cheap
Sometimes you scratch your head and wonder why a particular bike is shooting up in price. For me, right now, it’s the old air-cooled Kawasaki GPZ750. Really good ones seem to be fetching better money than the seminal 900R.
If you missed the GPZ750 the first time around, it was the best allround buy in the early/mid-1980s sportsbike market. Yamaha had the odd wide-barred 750 Seca, Suzuki had their new 16-valve GSX750EF, Honda were in chaos because their early VF750F was eating its top ends, and Kawasaki… well, Kawasaki tweaked their 750, itself little more than a hogged-out Z650 lump, with more power, and dropped the engine in a Uni-trak chassis, after a false start with a twin-shock version. They absolutely cleaned up.
Why? Because it looked like the GPZ1100, it did about 130mph, returned 50mpg without much effort, handled well for the era and was tough and reliable. Oh, and it was an air-cooled Kawasaki four, and they have a more loyal following than One Direction.
I bought one half a dozen years ago for £1275 – low miles, all original and very, very clean. It’s one of those bikes I’m now kicking myself for selling. You just can’t buy them for that sort of money now – in fact, you’d need to double the outlay to get a decent one.
It’s time for a second look at the air-cooled GPZ range. The 1100 is already expensive in really good condition, especially if it’s an early twin-shocker: a totally original one made £4000, yes, four grand, on ebay recently. The 750 is heading that way, nobody wants the 305 twin, and that leaves the 550, which was in production for a long time and is as cheap as chips right now. My advice? Buy now.
NEXT WEEK Single life is much more enjoyable than you’d think
● Work out what you can afford as a deposit and in monthly repayments for the duration of the contract. ● You can get PCP on any amount from £1500 upwards. ● Choose your new motorcycle (or a used one – bikes up to three years old can also qualify). ● Set a repayment term of between two and four years. ● Set your annual mileage at up to 24,000 miles a year. Your mileage will affect your monthly payments. ● Decide which end-of-agreement option is best for you when the time comes – most roll on to another bike.
Be aware that… ● You do not own the bike, and won’t unless you pay the final balloon figure. ● A significant proportion of the credit is deferred until the end of the contract, and it’s not the cheapest route to ownership. ● You must have fully comprehensive insurance. ● Excess mileage charges apply. ● Abuse or neglect will damage your bike’s guaranteed future value. ● The bike is at risk of repossession if you do not maintain repayments.