‘I’ve never had to look in­side the en­gine’

Motorcycle News (UK) - - Buying & Selling - CHARLES MARVELL Chief Tech­ni­cian at Fl­itwick Mo­tor­cy­cles, Bed­ford­shire

“FJRS will eas­ily cover huge mileages with ba­sic main­te­nance. Other than valve clear­ance check­ing, I have never seen in­side one of th­ese en­gines in the 16odd years they have been around.

“Ser­vic­ing is straight­for­ward, re­quir­ing oil changes ev­ery 6000 miles us­ing a good 10W40 semi syn­thetic and oil, plugs and fil­ters ev­ery 12,000 miles. Valve clear­ance check is needed ev­ery 24,000 miles but they rarely need ad­just­ment. From a home main­te­nance point of view they are rea­son­able. The sump plug and oil fil­ter are on the left side of the en­gine, spark plugs can be reached by hing­ing the tank up. The air fil­ter lives un­der the left side cover and is easy to re­move but can be fid­dly to re­place.

“Don’t be tempted to use or­di­nary oil in the diff, they must have Ya­malube drive shaft gear oil GL-5 80W-90. It’s not cheap but will en­sure the diff lasts in­def­i­nitely.

“Chas­sis-wise they fare well if kept clean, espe­cially through win­ter. It pays to fit a front mud­guard ex­ten­der as the ra­di­a­tor takes a beat­ing without one and re­place­ments are ex­pen­sive. I have fit­ted a cou­ple of Chi­nese af­ter­mar­ket ones. They look rough but did fit with a bit of coax­ing and seem to be last­ing.

“Brakes on the later models are linked – the rear pedal also ac­ti­vates one pair of pis­tons in the right front caliper while the front lever ap­plies all four pis­tons on the left caliper and two on the right. On ABS models get the brake fluid changed ev­ery year.

“The rear sus­pen­sion link­age can­not be re­moved without re­mov­ing the stand and ex­haust, so grease the parts you can get to as it’s not cost ef­fec­tive to re­move it com­pletely. “Elec­tri­cally, th­ese bikes are ro­bust with no charg­ing is­sues. The bat­tery and fuses live un­der the right front in­fill panel. There was a re­call for a sub har­ness on some models, so check with your dealer to see if your bike is af­fected. The ma­jor­ity of prob­lems are down to cor­ro­sion in the wiring. There are sev­eral earth blocks dot­ted about that can cor­rode.

“As with all bikes it pays to go for the lat­est model and al­though the FJR ap­pears lit­tle changed from the first model, there have been steady up­grades.

“In our ex­pe­ri­ence at Fl­itwick the most pop­u­lar tyre choices are: Met­zeler Road­tec 01, Miche­lin Pi­lot Road 4 and Pirelli An­gel GT.”

Change the brake fluid ev­ery year to avoid prob­lems with the ABS

Fin­ish is good but as with any bike watch for cor­ro­sion

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