Don’t get stranded by a punc­ture

Why sit around feel­ing de­flated when you can sort that flat­tie out in min­utes?

Motorcycle News (UK) - - This Week -

Read the in­struc­tions 1

Used as a tem­po­rary fix, a tube­less re­pair kit will get you go­ing very quickly. These kits are not en­dorsed by tyre man­u­fac­tures, although most ad­mit they can work ok. It is es­sen­tial that you ad­here to the in­struc­tions, specif­i­cally the size of the re­pair and the rec­om­mended speeds there­after. Equally im­por­tant is to make sure you get the dam­aged tyre looked at by your dealer or tyre spe­cial­ist as soon as pos­si­ble.

Find the cul­prit 2

Take a good look around the tyre for the cause of the punc­ture, in this case we used a pair of pli­ers to re­move a screw. Check the dam­age and make sure it’s safe to go ahead with a re­pair; large tears or any dam­age to the side­wall can­not be fixed with these kits, like­wise you should check the in­struc­tions on your kit to make sure that it is suit­able for the dam­age you have found on your tyre.

Squirt and seal 3

These kits squirt sealant in­side your tyre and re-in­flate it as they do so. Turn the wheel so the valve is at the top then dis­pense the whole can of sealant. You need to ride the bike straight away (keep­ing to the limit on the in­struc­tions) to dis­trib­ute the prod­uct evenly. Check the tyre pres­sure at a ser­vice sta­tion ASAP.

Get a Gryp kit 4

This is a very sim­ple and easy-to-use tem­po­rary fix to help get you home. In the kit you are sup­plied with CO gas cylin­ders,

2 plas­tic re­pair plugs, valve adap­tor, chalk and a pair of pli­ers. Find the cause of the punc­ture and cir­cle it with the chalk, us­ing the pli­ers re­move the screw or sharp ob­ject.

Chock-a-block 5Quite of­ten when a punc­ture oc­curs the resid­ual heat in the tyre makes it so sup­ple that the side walls no longer of­fer any sup­port. This low­ers the bike so much that it may not be able to stand up on its side­stand. So find a raised kerb or some­thing to lean the bike on, or chock the front wheel up.

Plug the punc­ture 6

In­stead of glue these kits have a coarse, threaded in­sert which you screw into the tyre un­til it reaches the shoul­der of the in­sert. It should be noted that these type of re­pairs are usu­ally only suc­cess­ful with punc­tures/dam­age that have caused small round holes, typ­i­cally by a screw or nail. They don’t suit tears or slashes.

Screw then snap 7

Once you have screwed the in­sert in right off to its shoul­der you need to snap off the han­dle. It is de­signed with a weak spot to break when side­ways force is ap­plied, so snap it off by ap­ply­ing force at 90 de­grees. The next job is to at­tach the C0 can­is­ter – you may need to turn

2 the wheel round to ac­cess the valve.

Raise the pres­sure 8

Make sure you have the plas­tic gauze in po­si­tion around the can­is­ter – as the gas in­side rushes into the tyre the metal cas­ing will get in­ced­i­bly cold and may freeze to your fin­gers. Empty the can­is­ter and the tyre will par­tially in­flate. You will prob­a­bly need to use at least three can­is­ters to in­flate a 180-size rear tyre to suf­fi­cient pres­sure for you to be able to ride the bike safely at lim­ited speeds.

Pres­sure check 9

With the tyre fully in­flated pro­ceed di­rectly to the near­est garage fore­court to check the tyre and in­flate it to the cor­rect pres­sure. Re­mem­ber that these road­side fixes are meant as a tem­po­rary re­pair to get you home, and there will be speed lim­i­ta­tions de­tailed in the kit’s in­struc­tions. Once you’re home you should book into your lo­cal garage for a re­place­ment tyre or per­ma­nent re­pair. Don’t put it off.

Re­fresh your brake fluid

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