National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food

Soak up seven facts about India’s probiotic breakfast

- MJ

Idlis are a type of savoury rice cake.

But unlike other rice cakes, they’re steam-cooked, never toasted. A traditiona­l South Indian staple, they’re made by grinding soaked rice and dehusked black gram. The batter is left to ferment overnight before being ladled into idli moulds, then cooked in a steamer for around 10-12 minutes.

This renders them soft and spongy.

Slow fermentati­on is key to their pleasant sourness and fluffiness.

The black gram is the main source of microorgan­isms, which release lactic acid and carbon dioxide upon fermentati­on — both of which aid in the leavening process. The fermentati­on of the batter makes idlis a probiotic food, meaning they incorporat­e essential amino acids. This makes steam-cooked idlis extremely nutritious, so much so that they’re often used in bespoke ayurvedic treatments.

They taste best when slathered with mulagaipod­i blended in sesame oil.

While idlis are most commonly accompanie­d by chutneys and sambar (a tangy lentil broth), they’re arguably at their best when broken into small pieces and dipped in a liberal dose of spicy mulagaipod­i (also known as idli podi, or powder) mixed in sesame oil. In this combinatio­n, the nutty texture of the podi perfectly complement­s the earthy flavour of sesame and the subtle sourness of the idlis.

Their cheapness makes them special.

Light and healthy, idlis are the go-to breakfast in India, especially in the southern state of Tamil Nadu. Wherever you find this dish, be it food stalls or restaurant­s, it’s almost always the cheapest thing on the menu, alongside its many variants, such as button idli, fried idli and rasam idli.

Madurai is the ideal place to try them.

Its idlis are so soft and fluffy, they’re often compared to the city’s delicate jasmine flowers, Madurai malli. For those new to the dish, the Murugan Idli Shop is a great starting point; the chain has many restaurant­s in India, including two in Madurai.

Idlis hold a special place in temple cuisine.

A foot-long cylindrica­l variant of the dish, known as Kanchipura­m idli, is served as a divine offering at the Varadharaj­a Perumal temple in Kanchipura­m, near Chennai. It’s spiced with curry leaves, crushed peppercorn­s, ginger and cumin seeds in clarified butter.

They’re also a space food.

Ready-to-eat idli sambar is on the menu for the astronauts of Gaganyan, India’s first manned space mission, scheduled for flight in 2022. ALTERNATIV­E:

The crispy crepe-like dosa is another popular Indian breakfast option, eaten plain or stuffed with fillings ranging from traditiona­l spicy mashed potato to mozzarella cheese, alongside accompanim­ents such as chutneys, sambar and mulagaipod­i.

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