Pro vs punter

Does a reg­u­lar diner reach the same con­clu­sion about a restau­rant as a food pro, who may get spe­cial treat­ment if recog­nised?* Laura Rowe and O reader Rosa Weiberle com­pare notes on this new south-coast open­ing

Olive - - Contents -

Laura Rowe and Rosa Weiberle com­pare notes on Etch in Brighton

Etch

Cool and un­pre­ten­tious Etch is the lat­est ad­di­tion to Brighton’s thriv­ing restau­rant scene. Steven Ed­wards, one of MasterChef: The Pro­fes­sion­als’ youngest win­ners, has kept it small and in­ti­mate at his first restau­rant, with 36 cov­ers and an open kitchen. Al­though of­fer­ing fine din­ing, with two weekly-chang­ing tast­ing menus, Etch has a dis­tinctly ca­sual feel to en­sure that the fo­cus is on the food. Steve works with lo­cal pro­duc­ers from the sur­round­ing Sus­sex coun­try­side to pick the fresh­est sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents for his in­tri­cate dishes. Ex­pect Sus­sex Trench­more beef with charred Hispi cab­bage, lo­cally caught scal­lops with squid crack­ers, and cher­ries filled with crème fraîche. De­pend­ing on the day, Etch of­fers four-, six- or eight-course tast­ing menus for be­tween £40-£60.

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