Week­ender: Dublin

Your es­sen­tial itin­er­ary for a foodie get­away

Olive - - Contents - Words AOIFE O’RIORDAIN

1Off-road De­tour off the tourist trail to find Bastible. Chef Barry Fitzger­ald manned the stoves at Lon­don’s Ar­bu­tus and The Har­wood Arms be­fore an­swer­ing the call of home and set­ting up this neigh­bour­hood bistro. Homemade but­ter and sour­dough bread set the tone, and his three-course menu is pre­dom­i­nantly lo­cally sourced; think sika deer fag­gots, or black pud­ding with ap­ple, onion broth and lardo. Two cour­ses 32, three cour­ses 38, and he also of­fers a chef ’s menu for 34. bastible.com

2Stel­lar din­ing The Miche­lin in­spec­tors re­cently gave a well-de­served star to diminu­tive restau­rant Heron & Grey lo­cated in Black­rock, a sea­side sub­urb of Dublin. Its nine-course tast­ing menus – courtesy of co-own­ers An­drew Heron and Damien Grey – fea­ture el­e­gant plates of sea­son­ally driven food, but the sur­round­ings are un­apolo­get­i­cally re­laxed. It’s only open three nights a week and, as a re­sult, you need to book early. Very early – it’s cur­rently booked up un­til 2018. hero­nand­grey.com

3Street eats Dublin has a bur­geon­ing street-food scene. Set next to the hip Bernard Shaw pub, the Eat­yard is a ro­tat­ing ros­ter of some of the city’s best pur­vey­ors, in­clud­ing Box Burger, bar­be­cue spe­cial­ist Pitt Bros and toastie mak­ers, Cheesus. It opens Thurs­day to Sun­day for lunch and dinner. the-eat­yard.com

4The black stuff Pubs are an in­trin­sic part of Dublin’s rich cul­tural her­itage. There are many stun­ning Vic­to­rian pubs dot­ted around the city where you can nurse a pint of the black stuff (brewed up the road at St James’s Gate) among snugs, brass and etched glass. One of the best is The Stag’s Head, which serves whiskey di­rect from the cask. lou­is­fitzger­ald.com

5Stride out A cherry-picked but ev­er­chang­ing med­ley of es­tab­lished and emerg­ing hot spots and ar­ti­sanal pro­duc­ers fea­ture on Fab Food Trails’ three-hour strolls through the city cen­tre. Sheri­dan’s Cheese­mon­gers on South Anne Street is one of its peren­nial favourites. fab­food­trails.ie

6New flavours One of a num­ber of places rein­vent­ing Dublin’s din­ing scene, Pickle has much in com­mon with Lon­don’s new-wave In­dian restau­rants such as Dishoom and Gymkhana. North­ern In­dian-in­spired dishes with an em­pha­sis on game are served here – stand­outs in­clude the slow-braised kid goat mince served with maska pao bread and wild boar vin­daloo. pick­lerestau­rant.com

7Some­thing fishy Wild Ir­ish seafood gets star billing in the small, no-fuss din­ing room of Fish Shop, set just off the north bank of the River Lif­fey, near Smith­field. The four-course, no-choice menu changes daily and fea­tures what­ever spank­ingly fresh fish and shell­fish is avail­able that day. It also has a lit­tle sis­ter just around the cor­ner, serv­ing fish and chips, and a long list of bio­dy­namic wines. fish-shop.ie

8Cult café On a quiet res­i­den­tial street, and only open dur­ing the day, Bibis was the first of a new breed of cafés that have since pro­lif­er­ated in the city of­fer­ing in­ven­tive food and great cof­fee. It serves a short menu for break­fast and lunch – the Turkish eggs are a cult menu item and the peanut but­ter brown­ies are ir­re­sistible. bibis.ie

9Taste test Named af­ter a street in New York, where one half of the hus­band and wife team be­hind it grew up, For­est Av­enue is one of the city’s must-vis­its. Sea­son­al­ity and sim­ple in­gre­di­ents are the mantra here, com­bined to stun­ning ef­fect in its range of tast­ing menus and plates like lamb, ar­ti­choke, smoked aubergine and black kale. forestav­enuer­estau­rant.ie

10Caf­feine hit Un­til the iconic Bew­ley’s Ori­en­tal Café re-opens this au­tumn on Grafton Street, head round the cor­ner to South Anne Street to seek out a su­pe­rior brew at Cof­feean­gel. Its choice of drip or es­presso-based cof­fees are made with beans sourced from small co-op­er­a­tives and sin­gle-es­tate pro­duc­ers. cof­feean­gel.com

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