Week­ender: Tis­bury

Pit-fired sal­mon and em­ber-roasted po­ta­toes, dew-dropped glasses of rosé, and warm, chewy choco­late cook­ies – all rea­sons to shout about this tran­quil Wilt­shire vil­lage


Pit-fired sal­mon and em­ber-roasted po­ta­toes, dew­dropped glasses of rosé, and warm, chewy choco­late cook­ies – all rea­sons to shout about this Wilt­shire vil­lage

1 Se­cret gar­den You might come to furtively nib­ble at the tay­berry bushes and ki­wis (re­ally!) in this 18th-cen­tury walled gar­den, but you’ll stay at Pyt­house Kitchen Gar­den for the fat flakes of sal­mon, smoked over a pit-fire, served with salty, em­ber-baked po­ta­toes and just­picked gar­den sal­ads. pyt­house­k­itchen­gar­den.co.uk

2 Right di­rec­tion The Com­passes Inn looks like a tra­di­tional boozer but within it are Scandi-chic bed­rooms, with warm choco­late cook­ies de­liv­ered as you un­pack. Save room for pil­lowy soft gnoc­chi, in a broad bean, mint and parme­san sauce, eaten with a view over the lush sur­round­ing hill­sides. the­com­pass­esinn.com

3 Arms race Vie with lo­cals for a ta­ble at The Beck­ford Arms, then in­dulge in the sea­sonal pub menu. Try ele­gant pan-fried sea bass with ar­ti­choke purée, sam­phire and fen­nel, and fin­ish with grown-up shakes spiked with spiced rum and salted caramel ice cream. beck­for­darms.com 4 Eats and crafts If it’s sen­sory over­load you’re after, book a stay at The Crafts­man’s

Cot­tage (right). Ex­pect to be wel­comed with a ham­per stuffed with award-win­ning ar­ti­sanal food and drink, while the kitchen sports table­ware from An­other Coun­try. While you’re there, book on to a pot­tery course. the­crafts­manscot­tage.com

5 Great catch Whether you’re shop­ping for a haul for home, or have gone self-cater­ing, head to The Fishmongers in Tis­bury town cen­tre for mack­erel from Cor­nish day boats, one of in-house cook Ruth’s fishy ready meals, and pretty tins of Or­tiz sar­dines. There’s a crack­ing butcher across the road, too. the­fish­mon­gers.co.uk

6 Bot­tle bank With a 300-strong col­lec­tion of wines from around the world (in­clud­ing its own Langue­doc rosé), as well as craft ale and cider, The Beck­ford Bot­tle Shop is a mustvisit for pic­nic pro­vi­sions. Or, ask for a bot­tle to be opened and set­tle down with a glass on the shop’s huge red Ch­ester­field. beck­ford­bot­tleshop.com 7 Pic­nic-me-up Punc­tu­ate all the ram­bling and wild swim­ming that is a must round th­ese parts by load­ing up at Tis­bury Deli. Pick up West Coun­try-made Costa Ri­can milk choco­late stud­ded with Mal­don sea salt, fresh fruit smooth­ies and Stonehenge beers made us­ing lo­cal spring wa­ter. tis­bury­deli.co.uk

8 Scandi chic Nor­we­gian cook­book au­thor and pho­tog­ra­pher Marte Marie Fors­berg runs food and life­style re­treats from her idyl­lic Tis­bury cot­tage kitchen. Live the dream and book to bake and pho­to­graph Scan­di­na­vian kransekake (a tra­di­tional mul­ti­lay­ered cel­e­bra­tion cake), or en­joy a pri­vate res­i­den­tial work­shop. mm­fors­berg.com

9 The white stuff When in the coun­try­side why not buy milk straight from the farm (via a vend­ing ma­chine). Head to Church Farm Dairy and fill glass bot­tles to the brim with fresh (less than 24 hours old), non-ho­mogenised milk, seven days a week. church­far­m­dairy­sem­ley.com

10 Bag it up Down a bumpy track, with ban­tams and mal­lards as the wel­com­ing com­mit­tee, Clementine’s Shop serves flap­jacks and tea over­look­ing a 19th-cen­tury court­yard. Stock up on gifts and kitchen kit (china, linen, table­ware) while you’re there. clemen­ti­nesshop.com


Dou­bles at The Com­passes Inn start from £110, b&b (the­com­pass­esinn.com). More info: vis­itwilt­shire.co.uk.

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