THE KITCHEN, FAL­MOUTH

Olive - - EAT - thek­itchen­fal­mouth.co.uk

Tucked away in Fal­mouth’s Old Brew­ery Yard, The Kitchen is a laid­back Cor­nish restau­rant fo­cussing on freshly grown, shot or for­aged Bri­tish pro­duce. Chef Ben Cox­head runs the tiny open kitchen with fel­low owner and artist Rory Blair run­ning front of house.

With only a hand­ful of ta­bles and an eclec­tic in­te­rior of mis­matched chairs, wine bot­tles for wa­ter, re­cy­cled tins to hold the cut­lery, fag pack­ets and well-weath­ered books, The Kitchen is more like a hip­pie liv­ing room than a restau­rant (in the best pos­si­ble way). The sound­track, too, is un­con­ven­tional (and all the bet­ter for it). Com­pet­ing with the clat­ter and splat­ter of the kitchen, dub­step through to drum and bass and hip hop plays un­apolo­get­i­cally. It’s as chilled out and ca­sual as it gets – ex­cept when it comes to the food. That they take very se­ri­ously in­deed.

There’s not a menu as such – it’s ei­ther scrawled on a large mir­ror for lunch or an an­tique tile for din­ner. We stop by for the for­mer, where there’s a sim­ple choice of pi­geon or mack­erel with bub­ble and squeak, flat­breads or “chef’s plate”. We’re pointed in the di­rec­tion of the fish and squeak. We’re ex­pect­ing hum­ble but we’re met with smart flavours and tex­tures. There’s crisp skin and ten­der flakes from the mack­erel, proper roast din­ner flavour, home-style bub­ble and squeak, sea­sonal greens, charred cau­li­flower, sweet roasted car­rots, a rub­ble of colour­ful pick­les, and soft, ooz­ing poached eggs.

At din­ner, ex­pect the un­ex­pected. The weekly chang­ing menu of small plates is kept vague – think par­tridge and cock­les, rab­bit and scurvy, or sim­ply “sum­mer stuff”. Or­der ev­ery­thing, tast­ing-menu style. Oh, and say hi to the res­i­dent poo­dle.

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