What to look out for
The rot-prone bodywork needs close scrutiny. Frilly front wings are common – concentrate on where they meet the sills and around the headlights – while inner and outer sills and rear wheel-arches dissolve rapidly. Also check around the locking catches of the bonnet, the edges of the boot lid, the valances, screen surrounds where previous repairs may have been botched, and rear buttresses, which can rot from the inside. Door skins and frames rust, as does the battery box. Sourcing panels and exterior parts isn’t difficult, but major surgery is unlikely to make financial sense.
Rust around the bulkhead/scuttle requires an expensive repair. Prod the metal around the engine subframe, the crossmember that supports the radiator, the jacking points and the fuel tank.
Low values not so long ago mean there’s plenty of potential for shoddy, filler-laden repairs, so tread carefully. Post-1991 cars were only partly galvanised so don’t assume that they’ll be rust-free.
That V12 is a peach, but neglect will quickly see it become a money-pit, and if you spot any signs of cylinder head gasket failure or exhaust smoke then beware – you’ll have your work cut out! Check for rattling timing chains and for signs of oil and coolant leaks. Regular oil and filter changes are needed, with coolant refreshed every two years to protect the alloy cylinder heads. Overheating can be catastrophic, so be very wary of an engine that shows signs of getting hot and bothered.
Replacement of leaking exhaust manifold gaskets is predictably involved, and potentially expensive.
Ensure that spark plug changes haven’t been missed on HE engines, they can seize into the head if ignored. There’s also a plethora of perishable hoses and pipework – poor running and fuel leaks are a particular problem. A stack of bills showing that the V12 has been cared for is the best way to protect sanity and bank balance alike. The six cylinder engines are generally reliable, but look for evidence of head gasket issues or rich running on idle or light throttle - it denotes an ECU problem.
Various gearboxes were used, and the important thing is that they are smooth-shifting and leak-free. Listen for clunks from worn gearbox mounts and propshaft UJS, and check for oil leaks from the back axle as they risk contaminating inboard rear brakes.
Signs of neglected brakes include corroded discs and pipes, and calipers seized from lack of use. On earlier cars, the inboard rear brakes are a pain to work on, so often get ignored. Suspension-wise, perform the usual checks for leaking dampers and perished bushes – of which there are plenty. Worn rear radius arm bushes and rear subframe mounts will noticeably affect the handling.
Water ingress can cause electrical niggles and corrosion. Headlinings sag too. You can easily pay upwards of £1000 for a new Cabriolet hood. Ensure that the footwells are dry, and that the door seals are intact. A smell of petrol in the boot can be anything from a rotten tank to weeping pipes.