Meet the style cu­ra­tors

WITH IM­PEC­CA­BLE STYLE SAVVY AND CA­REER SMARTS, THESE THREE IN­SID­ERS CON­QUERED THE FASH­ION WORLD. NOW THEY’VE SET THEIR SIGHTS ON RE­TAIL, TOO

Red - - CONTENTS - Words ALICE OLINS Pho­to­graphs PHILL TAY­LOR and MAT­TEO CHERUBINO

Three in­sid­ers share their se­crets to con­quer­ing the fash­ion world

ALEX EA­GLE

The epit­ome of stylish dis­cre­tion, Alex Ea­gle, 33, cut her fash­ion teeth as a PR at Joseph, be­fore be­com­ing a stylist. It was her clients’ con­tin­ual re­quests to buy fur­ni­ture from her apart­ment that in­spired Ea­gle to cre­ate new re­tail ex­pe­ri­ence The Store. It is housed in an airy space in Soho and sells a cu­rated edit of fash­ion, in­te­ri­ors, art, pho­tog­ra­phy and ce­ram­ics – and her own fash­ion la­bel. Ea­gle is also cre­ative di­rec­tor of The Store Ber­lin and The Store at Soho Farm­house.

ON COL­LAB­O­RA­TIONS

“I wanted to cre­ate ev­ery­thing my­self with the de­sign­ers that I find and meet – it’s fun and it’s spe­cial. I do tend to at­tract cre­ative peo­ple, like the artist Luke Edward Hall and ce­ram­i­cist Romy Northover who is be­hind De­sign By No. The peo­ple I col­lab­o­rate with be­come friends – and I think through so­cial me­dia, cus­tomers now like to have a peek into my life. It makes the brand re­ally gen­uine.”

ON NEW-STYLE SHOP­PING

“Mod­ern re­tail is about be­ing in­spired, look­ing at some books, eat­ing and lis­ten­ing to a nice record that is play­ing – it’s not about just go­ing shop­ping.”

ON WARDROBE BUILD­ING BLOCKS

“I don’t have time to faff about get­ting dressed, es­pe­cially since hav­ing a baby. So to make things easy and to em­power women, our own brand shirt goes with our trousers, and our trousers with the blaz­ers; it makes get­ting dressed and pack­ing easy – it frees up your time. The col­lec­tion is based on the way that men shop and dress. They don’t buy in the sale for the sake of it, they buy to last, and I want that ideal for women.”

JJ MARTIN

A self-de­clared vin­tage-fash­ion ob­ses­sive, Amer­i­can style and de­sign jour­nal­ist JJ Martin, 43, has spent the past 15 years un­cov­er­ing Mi­lan’s vin­tage trea­sures – and grow­ing her fash­ion net­work. A year ago, she com­bined the two and launched her mad­cap yet bril­liant on­line mag­a­zine and vin­tage sales em­po­rium, Ladou­blej.com. To­day, her site is a fully fledged brand, in­clud­ing an own-la­bel col­lec­tion. Martin is com­mit­ted to do­ing things her own colour­ful way – and with brands such as Tory Burch, Ar­mani and Max Mara now ask­ing for her cre­ative con­sult­ing skills, her vin­tage-print brand is Mi­lan’s hottest go-to.

ON DO­ING THINGS HER WAY

“I felt that fash­ion had be­come so bor­ing – ev­ery­thing is so com­mer­cial, it made me feel numb. I felt I was see­ing the same things ev­ery­where and I wasn’t get­ting a great thrill any more. I just wanted to show my way of do­ing things. It’s bonkers and fun – it is a max­i­mal­ist par­adise – but ev­ery­thing on the site is my au­then­tic vi­sion. I truly be­lieve that the less self-con­scious you are, the bet­ter you do.”

ON FASH­ION + SO­CIAL ME­DIA

“Fash­ion with­out cul­tural con­text is so dry. You need to tell sto­ries with clothes, and there are new ways of com­mu­ni­cat­ing these days. You need to have au­ton­omy – your own voice – to do things your way.”

ON EX­TEND­ING HER IN­FLU­ENCE

“So many well-known brands come to me be­cause they re­alise they need a lit­tle bit of nich­eness – we are not ro­bots. I value a more in­ti­mate and au­then­tic ap­proach to fash­ion and that is what I am try­ing to do with Ladou­blej. In the spring we are host­ing a month-long pop-up with Bon­marché in Paris and a spe­cial mother/daugh­ter event with Bergdorf Good­man in New York.”

SOPHIA NEOPHITOUAPOSTOLOU

By her own ad­mis­sion, Sophia Neophi­tou-apos­tolou, 51, was a late starter in fash­ion. Be­fore launch­ing 10 Mag­a­zine at the age of 31, she worked for an ar­chi­tec­ture prac­tice and Elle Deco

– hence her con­tin­ued in­ter­est in fur­ni­ture and in­te­rior de­sign. These days Neophi­tou-apos­tolou is a suc­cess­ful stylist and fash­ion vi­sion­ary, help­ing to shape some of Lon­don’s most suc­cess­ful brands – Anya Hind­march, Roland Mouret and An­to­nio Ber­ardi in­cluded. At the very end of 2016, she launched 10 Cu­rates, an on­line mar­ket­place that brings to­gether all of her favourite brands.

ON THE PER­SONAL TOUCH

“I choose ev­ery­thing; all the fur­ni­ture, all the books, it’s about a di­a­logue. Roland Mouret in­tro­duced me to In Da Cot­tage, one of our ven­dors. We go shop­ping there to­gether when I stay with him in Nor­folk. I want Roland to dis­cuss the shop on the site, to tell its story. We also pro­file each ven­dor we sell. It’s im­por­tant to give the story of the de­signer be­cause that is what cus­tomers buy into.”

ON SHOP­PING ON­LINE

“I have be­come an on­line shopa­holic – you can buy art on­line, I love it – it’s quite thrilling, to take the has­sle out of things. 10 Cu­rates is too global to have a phys­i­cal store, plus I don’t know if it would be big enough to house all the things I love.”

ON FEAR­LESS­NESS

“To have the ul­ti­mate cre­ative free­dom I had to cre­ate a plat­form that cel­e­brates all the things I love, and that is unique in its sen­si­bil­ity and taste. Start­ing my own mag­a­zine made me not afraid to go there – to be able to put my­self on the line and hope that some­one gets it. I have never had busi­ness plans – I’ve done what I’ve done with the be­lief that it will res­onate.”

Alex Ea­gle in her Soho-based The Store

Bracelet, £3,000, Irene Danilovich Shirt, £195, Alex Ea­gle

Ear­ring, £195, Char­lotte Ch­es­nais

Bag, £600, Henry Cuir

JJ Martin in her Mi­lan show­room

Vin­tage neck­lace, £487, Elviretta

Vin­tage bag, £373, Roberta di Camerino

Vin­tage dress, £775, Her­mès

Vin­tage bracelet, £731, Gianni Ver­sace by Ugo Cor­re­ani

Dress, £667, Ladou­blej

Sophia Neophitouapostolou at one of her ven­dors,

Les Couilles du Chien in Lon­don

Ring, £5,000, Del­fina Delet­trez Ego­iste 11, £120, Novem­ber Books Bracelet, £750, Phoenix Roze

Flow­er­head 002 by Stephen Do­herty, £395

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